Question about Whirlpool Gold White-on-White 21.9 cu. ft. Conquest Side-By-Side Refrigerator with Ice and Water GD2SHAXLQ Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
J, As you open the freezer door the LED on the right should flash 2X with a pause repeatedly. When you hold the left side emmiter down the light should stay on steady. If you have this, you know the optics are good unless the ejector blades are not home. First thing to check is where the ejector blades on the ice maker are parked. They should be resting in the 2:00 position. If they are not, you could have a broken module. If they are in the 2:00 positon the next thing to check would be the fill tube. You want to make sure it is not frozen over. You can disconnect it from the back and see if you can blow through the line or visually inspect it. If all of the above mentioned check out, jump start the ice-maker. Remove the quarter inch screw holding the harness cover on the right side. Remove the harness cover. Pull the ice-maker straight out but be carefull not to smash the emmitter flap on the left side. Leave the harness connected. Get a jumper wire with the ends stripped apout a 1/4 inch. Unplug the refer and place the jumper in test holes T&H. Leave the jumper in and place the ice maker on the shelf where you can close the door. Close the door and plug the refer back in. Wait 30 seconds and open the door. The ice maker should be cycleing. Pull the jumper and place the module cover back on. Put the ice maker back in the rails. It should fill at approx the 12:00 position. Let me know how you make out. Catriver.
Posted on Jul 08, 2007
You definitely have something wrong with the ice maker if the water has turned to ice Schmerold. And the IM is not harvesting. The way it works is the IM needs 28 degrees F to harvest. If the coils below in the condenser are dirty the IM won't try to harvest. The Ice Mold thermostat is mounted on the firewall of the Ice mold in its own little cubby whole. To access it you will need to remove the head. Then remove the shell separating the Ice mold from the heads housing. There you will find the ice mold thermostat. It's only function is to get it on. If the temperature is right in the freezer. To test this precious thermostat one needs only to stick it into a freezer and let it hang out for an hour or so. Then grab it and check it for continuity. If it is open it has failed and belongs in the file 13. It is easily replaced and inexpensive.
On your model, ice maker operation is controlled by an optical sensor mounted on both sides of the freezer liner. The usual failure of this model is a bad emitter board, located in one of these recesses. You may view the service instructions for checking this sensor.
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Posted on Apr 04, 2009
I already posted this, but here it is...
The outage/start relay needed replacing. I tried it, and it worked. (The kit came with insturctions.) Total cost: $64 (Would have been cheaper if I would have been willing to wait a couple of days - +/-$45.00.)
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
unfortunately, the heater is molded into the unit.
without testing every part of the icemaker there is now way to be certain which of the following has failed...
USING THIS DIAGRAM -
#11 is the heater assembly
#17 is the thermostat that controls the heater.
An entire unit replacement is not necessary.
Hope this helps.
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Posted on May 27, 2009
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