Question about American DJ Fogstorm 1700hd Fog Machine W/ Remote System

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Unit powers up. Heater heats- I get 120 Volts across them. The pump has "120 v" printed on it, but I do not get any voltage reading whether the switch is depressed or not. The switch DOES appear to be working. There is a voltage differential across the leads when in its open state. When I depress the button, voltage differential across the switch goes to zero. The pump is connected by 2 white wires to a white block on the board. I don't get any voltage reading either across these 2 wires or on either wire when referenced to ground. What do I need to replace? Where do I buy the part? Thank you.

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You can get the parts at American DJ's website.

Posted on Nov 06, 2013


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I have a Waterway Insulated wetend pump 1 HP. Model # SD-10-2N11MC It has power to the pump but doesn't work. 118 Volts per wire. Makes no noise but keeps blowing fuses. A Balboa VS501Z power unit.

You have a short some place or the motor or pump itself is shot or seized causing it to shut itself down by blowing fuses. Could be bad bearings.
See if you can turn the shaft on the hand with it not plugged in that will tell you where the problem could be. .

Apr 12, 2015 | Waterway Pool & Spa

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Aquastat relay

It may be, the best way to check a line voltage thermostat like the aqua stat is take a multi-meter on AC volts (120), when the thermostat is or should be demanding heat put the meter across the screws, if you read more than 20-30 volts for certain the stat is worn out. A functioning aqua stat when checking across the terminals should read but a few volts whether the system is 120 or 24 volts, on low voltage it's even more critical to limit voltage drop through a set of contacts.

Oct 11, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Dryer working fine, but no heat, clothes not drying

not knowing what kind of dryer hard to help you out.. if it is a standard dryer most of time back panel can be removed and access gained to heater and thermostat ... you want to gain access to the heater area and unplug unit ... taking a multi meter check the heater by removing 2 power wires and checking contuinity to heater... should read through heater and if your meter has a tone on the ohms reading should beep at you.. check the limit/thermost the same way by removing wires to it and testing.. prior to doing all this make sure the vent pipe is clear all the way through and that you actually have correct voltage to unit.. even though unit comes on it will run off 120 volts ,but the heating element requires 220-245 volts to operate... test power at the back of dryer and make sure across the power cord you actually have full power...good luck to you

Jan 27, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a duet model 9200lw1 it has no heat I have replace the heater element still no heat when the dryer is on both sides of the element read 120v and it reads 120v at the high-limit thermostat and It...

you need to actually check the resitance on the high heat thermostat and cut off... make sure if your meter has a ohms and a beeper on it it should beep when you test across it with the unit unplugged and the wires off the terminals of the limit.... when the heater is heating if you test across the two terminals of the heater if working properly you should get 0 reading.
make sure you have 220-245 volts coming into back of unit even if you think it is check it the unit will still have a light and tumble with half power. you need to test across terminals at same time and should get the above voltage..... good luck to you hope you get it fixed..... good luck

Jan 08, 2011 | Whirlpool GEW9200L Electric Dryer

2 Answers

What voltage should be delivered to the fuel pump on a 2001 Olds alero?? I'm reading 4.6 Volts (anticipated 12 volts). If 12 is required any suggestions on where to look for the decrease.

that's the voltage of the fuel sender unit, i.e. gas gauge. try the other wires. the power goes on for only 2 seconds so you'll need someone else to turn the key while you check this out

Jan 03, 2011 | 2003 Oldsmobile Alero

2 Answers


The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

Nov 04, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer runs but no heat. I have ohm checked the heating element, all thermostats and the thermal fuse. All ohm okay. I also checked voltage throughout the circuits from the main block to each...

Did you read ~220 volts AC across the two slanted blades of the power socket? The motor and controls usually run on 115 volts. When the timer is set to dry, press start, and look for ~220 volts at the heater element connections. (Don't let the heater reach full heat if it starts working!) You may have to short the door switch connections to get the unit to run. If you don't read 220 volts at the plug, check the output from each breaker of the dryer pair (should read 115 volts to neutral). Hope this helps!

Oct 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will not run only on gas but will not cool

If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC

If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.


Aug 24, 2010 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

3 Answers

My new heater does not work on my hot tub. I have a Jacuzzi Z135 Model s2600000 with a Controller version r574 and a Balboa 58028 that has been replaced by the 53349 heater (4 KW, 1 PSI set Pressure...

Test across both terminals at the same time. If you are getting 230V, disconnect power and check the resistance across the terminals. For 4kW, you should get roughly 13 ohms. If not, the element is bad.
If you get 0 Volts across the terminals, the tub is not heating. ManyBalboa packs switch both leads to the same leg of power, so you can get 120V to ground from each terminal, but you get 0V from terminal to terminal.
The clincher here is that the "heater on" light is off. I would double-check the pressure switch. You should test it with the tub running in heat mode. Disconnect one of the flag terminal leads from the switch, THEN test for continuity across the terminals. If you get none, you have either low flow or a bad pressure switch. You can verify by jumping the two wires together and see if the "heat" light comes on. Again, check for flow. I would run any of these tests with the filter removed. The symptoms you describe are very commonly caused by a dirty filter causing low flow. Again, pressure switch test. A bad sensor would cause the "current temp" to read too high, and a hi-limit problem would cause the little "heater-on" light to flash. Unless that little light is just dead (I've never seen it go bad), everything you say points to the pressure switch (or a dirty filter).

Nov 30, 2009 | Jacuzzi S750000 Black RapidHeat In Line...

1 Answer

Getting Power everywhere is not cord. I have

Try reading the resistance on the coil itself. If your coil is damaged and has a high resistance the voltage will still read 120 volts, becuase there is no current. The voltage drop across the coil is equal to the resistance of the coil times the current. V = I * R. "I" being current. If the resistance of the coil is high because it is broken then the voltage will still read 120V. Another way is to read the current through the coil.

If it is a 1500W fryer then the current through the coil is about 12 amps. 1500/120= 12.5. To calculate the resistance of the coil you would you take the voltage divided by the current. 120/12.5 = 9.6 ohms.

Therefore the resistance of the coil should be very low. It will actually be lower when it is not hot. So your ohmeter should read somewhere between 5 and 15 ohms.

Bob Janelli

Oct 01, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

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