Question about Danco Faucet Stem

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The 4S-6H/C replacement faucet stem is not a direct replacement for the valve stem I have. They are very similar but when installed the replacement leaks as though it were not shut completely off. the valve stem is not screwed in place but rather held by a pin. The hole location on the replacement is slightly shorter than the original and so when the pin is in place the seals do not press as hard against the shut off.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I bought the Danco replacement

Sometimes on the stems on the side the handle attaches is a nut that can be tightened. Inside this nut is a rubber or other type of seal. tightening this nut stops the water from coming out of the handle. If the nut has already been tightened then possibly need to replace this rubber seal.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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SOURCE: Where does washer go for 12h-6h/c stem from Danco for faucet?

If it is red in color it is a #38 fiber washer and is the cap thread gasket.

Posted on Jan 06, 2011

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Diagram-Type Faucets


DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS

  • The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-type faucets. A rubber diaphragm between the stem and seat creates a straight-down, frictionless close. As with washer-type faucets, diaphragm faucets have two handles.

  • Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-type faucets. Instead of a washer on the end of the stem, you'll find a swiveling disc. If the rubber diaphragm doesn't come out with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.

  • If the diaphragm didn't come out with the stem, use pliers to peel it from inside the faucet and pull it out. Install a new diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then replace the stem in the faucet.

  • If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replace the stem's O-ring before reinstalling the stem.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

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How to repair a washer-type faucet


REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET

  • Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.

  • To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.

  • Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.

  • Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.

  • Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.

  • The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.

  • Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.

  • It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.

  • Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.

  • If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

How to fix a leaky Moen faucet that leaks at the spout ,which is separate from the handle?


These faucets can leak in three different places:

  1. Internally at the valve seat
    You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
  2. Around the handle
    If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.

  3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
    The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.
Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.

Sep 10, 2011 | Moen Plumbing

1 Answer

How do the 3 pieces go together for installation. The 3Z-6H/C?? thanks


first off, put the spring in the faucet big end down. then put the black rubber boot seal in next and push it into place. Then place the Stem in but be sure to line up the notches before you screw it all down. I hope the will help you....

Jan 07, 2011 | Danco Faucet Cartridge

1 Answer

I bought the Danco replacement stem for a milwaukee faucet(part 4s-6h/c) it is leaking from the handle... do I need to replace the plastic part that runs back into the pipe? Is there an easy way to remove...


Sometimes on the stems on the side the handle attaches is a nut that can be tightened. Inside this nut is a rubber or other type of seal. tightening this nut stops the water from coming out of the handle. If the nut has already been tightened then possibly need to replace this rubber seal.

Sep 02, 2010 | Danco Faucet Stem

1 Answer

How to replace all the valves hot ,cold , diverter


If you don't really want to tear into the finished tile, you could repair this units most likely. You will have to shut off the water in the house. Remove all handles. Loosen large nut assembly and unscrew the valve stem. If you remove the valve stems you can purchase the complete assembly at a full service plumbing supply co. If the seats are not removeable, a reseating tool is inexpensive. Replacement knobs are available if they are unsightly. The replacement will require removing tile, drywall, cutting or de-soldering piping. Purchase a new valve and follow directions to install. Home depot sell Price Pfister faucets.

Jul 11, 2010 | Price Pfister Bedford Three Handle...

2 Answers

Where does washer go for 12h-6h/c stem from Danco for faucet?


Is it brass, stainless, plastic or rubber? I think a stainless one might be for the knob screw, I don't think there is one inside, it might just have fallen into the pack. We get weird stuff all the time that doesn't belong. Hope this helps.

May 31, 2010 | Danco Faucet Cartridge

1 Answer

How to insert a hot cold ste, 3Z-6H/C FAUCET REPAIR


#1 THE FAT PART OF YOUR SPRING GOES INSIDE THE FAUCET ,AND SIT ON THE VALVE BODY(SEAT)
#2 THE LITTLE BLACK WASHER SIT ON TOP OF YOUR SPRING
#3 PUSH THE STEMS IN THE CORRECT SIDES HOT ON LEFT.CAUTION THERE IS USUALLY NOTCHES ON THE SIDES OF THE STEMS TO HELP YOU ALIGN THEM IN THE VALVE BODY,
4 PUT THE NUT BACK ON ,TIGHEN SLIGHTLY,TURN ON THE WATER TO CHECK ,IF OK RE INSTALL YOUE HANDLES

Apr 06, 2010 | Danco Faucet Cartridge

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