Question about Intermatic WH40 - Water Heater Time Switch - NEMA 1 Indoor Steel Case - DPS

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I have the WH21 Timer and the lightis bright when it is heating, and only goes to dim when it shuts off.Should the light go out completely when it goes off?Water gets extemely hot,so I cut it back one notch to 4.What usally goes out ,the thermastat or timer?Have been getting what seems like a lot of air when you turn on the faucets in any room.Thanks Don

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  • dadoman02 Oct 17, 2010

    Hi Fredy,There was a loud pop and the bulb went out on the Intermatic Timer.Have been getting a lot of spitting pressure from all faucets.I turned the temp down yesterday, but last night it pop the light out on timer.Have drained the tank and not too much lime came out.Trying to check the lower element.Still had spitting pressure after turning temp down,giving it time to cool down.Don

  • dadoman02 Oct 18, 2010

    Hi Fredy,I already fixed the problem .It was the Heating elements,so i bought the thermostat and element kit and spent most of the day draining the tank and replaceing the parts .Bottom element was toasted and blown out.This was causing the singing effect when it started heating.Used a wet vac and cleaned out bottom of tank.Lots of lime deposits on top element also.Runs quitely now and heats great.did not need advise after all.

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Overtemperature is a failed thermostat. Most heaterss have two of them and they are adjustable. Set them back to around 140.

Often devices that have an indicator lamp the is the incandescent type do NOT let the bulb go out completely, but maintain a low dim light level. This reduces the starting surge that usually pops the filament in the bulb as it ages. By keeping the lamp on dim, the surge is mostly eliminated and lamp life is greatly extended.

Posted on Oct 17, 2010

  • Fred Yearian Oct 18, 2010

    It sounds like a major failure in the tank. If the tank is beyond the warranty time it likely has thermostats and or element problems. At that point best to replace the tank. Most the elements run from 220 and as a result if they cut through to the case they are a direct short from one side of the line to ground. If the tank is relatively new and under warranty exercise the warranty as long as they don't rip you off for labor... Other than that using an ohmmeter should diagnose the actual cause.

    You see if the element shorts on the side opposite the thermostat, then that will continue to heat in spite of the thermostat opening. These Calrod heaters often develop shorts near the bends of the element rods. If you find a shorted element, that is probably worth replacing as they are usually under $20. Use Rectorseal and you need a special wrench to unscrew them that costs about $12 at Home Depot.

  • Fred Yearian Oct 18, 2010

    While you had the tank open I would have suggested you replace the sacrificial anode... that extends the life of the tank. They either get eaten away or covered with lime and become ineffective. There are how to's on YouTube about this.

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