Battery connectors don,t fit into each other. Both sides look the same.

VERY IMPORTANT to tell you MAKITA HAS MODIFICATED the switch assembly and battery connector !!!!! of this device .

If you have a saw with the 2 contacts in the connectorplate then the problem of an to early defect battery is possible by missing of a thirt protect connector to protect a to deep discharged battery .
The new switch assembly has 3 contacts a - and a + and the very important Low Voltage Disconnect contact that should shut off in one time the machine it looks like its defect but its not !! thats the protection and then only take the battery in the charger .
Because there must be a little dc in the battery left for the charger accept, if the battery is to low the charger will not accept the battery anymore then you will have to take the battery to someone with a special cadex charger to boost the dc again in or go to a special makita service , hold as much as possible the batteries on the charger to last the battery life. the best is if you have no protected 3 contacts connector to build it over Makita has moost of the time a little ridge on one side of the battery connector (marketing technical) because of the modification on the new connectorplate so it wont fit in the old housing hihihiiii but i
I just cut it off with pliers and file it smooth, its easy so I can just use the old machine housing again you need for modification IF YOU NEED ?? or you have the new 3 contacts machine already and don,t know before of the stop function by lowered battery. but otherwise you need a new switch and connector both.

This would be difficult to re wire your harness to a transmission that differs from the original I would recommend installing the proper transmission

My suggestion ask that mechanic to do it for you on the side maybe and see how much he would charge if you don't know anything much about going under the hood that would be best, if not here goes. First find the horn make sure you can get to it there should be a connector or plug on it should being the key word. Find it and remove it, you will need a wire long enough to run from the horn around and through some place in the firewall next to the wall between the engine and inside and back out to the battery so make sure its long enough to do that as well make sure the wire is 2 different colors inside sometimes they come copper on one side and silver color on the other or you can find black and red coated wires an 18 gauge speaker wire should work 15 to 20 ft should be plenty tape the ends of the wires with 8 inches excess hanging to the battery one end and the other to the horn not connected just so it holds the wire while you run it to inside the car string the wire around under the hood so its not all over the engine but around it and not on anything that gets hot to melt it. Make sure you know when you run it inside which side of the bend (you will have to bend it to get it inside the cab) make sure you know which side was going to the battery and which to the horn when you have the wire inside the car cut the wire on the copper side or the red side but dont cut the black shave back the plastic on the cut wire so you can get to the bare wire on the toggle switch any kind with 2 connectors on it is ok or you can also get a push button kind so it works like the horn find the positive connector on it and negative connector, connect the side of the red/copper wire that is going to the battery to the positive side if it has no positive or neg it doesn't matter either side then. Now connect the other side of the spliced wire to the negative or other side of the switch. once this is done under the hood look for positive and negative on the horn strip wire ends so you can get to bare wire connect the red/copper to the pos. and black/silver to the neg. You can use connectors for this or you can twist the wires around the connectors like a twist tie and tape with black electrical tape not clear tape. then on the battery put the red to pos. and black to neg. I would splice off enough plastic coating to wrap wire around battery terminal connector not the post make sure you connect the pos. last and don't touch the neg wire to anything else. then test the horn if it is working unhook the pos. side of the wire on the battery until you get ready for inspection and when done remove this so you don't have battery drain or other problems. Good luck

Attach a length of garden hose no longer than 5 feet, to the threaded drain hose connection that was supplied with your unit, to carry water to the drain.
1. Remove the drain-hole cover on the back left side of your unit.
2. Connect a garden hose to the threaded drain hose connector.
3. Push hose connector tightly to the drain-hole on Rear Grille with the arrow on the tab pointing UP.
The hose attachment will accept a standard garden hose fitting.
Do not over tighten the hose when connecting it to the hose connector,
use a rubber washer and tighten by hand firmly without stripping the
plastic threads.
When being attached to hose connector drain hose connection,
do not bend or kink the hose. The hose should lie flat from the
dehumidifier to the drain.

It's hard to say, don't know what kind of ford, what model, what engine, the low side id the smaller of the to ports, you can't get it wrong, the connector won't go on the port if it's the high side

Hi Marsha,

You have a cable running from the battery to the motor. That cable has a connector that must be disconnected by squeezing the sides of the connector. Now take the cable end from the charger and connect it to the connector that is connected to the battery. I know they look a little odd, but they will match up...and only one way.

Thanks for using Fixya.

Disconnect the connector at the coolant sensor. Place a jumper wire on the connector. Turn the key on to run position and see if the fan starts, but don't start car. If it doesn't run, try turning it with your hand to see if it is free. If it turns, unplug the connector at the fan and place a wire from the + side of the battery to one side of the fan itself. Take another wire and place it on the - side of the battery, and put it on the other side of the fan terminal. If the fan is good it will run at this point. Be careful not to let the wires touch each other since it is a close fitting. If the fan runs, start looking for a bad relay.If it doesn't run, replace fan.

Check that the battery terminals are clean and that the battery connectors are a tight fit and cannot slide around the battery post or terminal.

The ignition switch may be faulty or the connector to it may have become detached or the main vehicle fuse might have blown. Does the radio work, interior light or any of the ancillary electrical equipment?

Have you checked for voltage at the demand side (as opposed to the supply side of various fuses)?

Check the main battery cables (the positive and the negative) and that the earth cables are a secure fit and have a good electrical connection.

Is the battery connected the right way round? Positive to positive and Negative to negative?

I had this problem, Motor is gone. The drep motor is a pile of ****. Go to ebay or buy a replacement direct from korea, The 12v doesnt appear on the cct as the fan doesnt operate unless the door is shut. Hope this helps anyone who google this

Borrowed from racketboy.com :

What You Need:

• 3.88 mm security bit. You need this to unscrew the funky hexagon-shaped bolts on SNES carts.
• A SNES Game Battery (aka an CR2032)
  
• A basic soldering iron, nothing fancy. I bought a kit at radioshack for $8, came with a 45-watt iron. (You COULD also just tape the battery in instead of soldering)
• An X-Acto knife, or some kind of scraping razor. It justneeds to be a VERY thin knife, one you don’t mind getting stained up. A kit with a variety of blades can also be found at Radioshack, Wal-Mart or craft stores, for around $4.
• Some Electrical tape.

SNES Game Battery Swap Walkthrough

1. Clean your hands thoroughly first.
2. With your SNES cart lying face-side up on a table, you’ll see the two hexagon bolts on the bottom two corners. Use your 3.88 mm security bit to remove these bolts.
3. Lift the cart’s front cover by pulling up, toward you. You’ll see thebackside of the game’s board. Lift the board out. Try not to touch anythingbut the edges any more than you have to.
4. On the other side of the board, you’ll see the battery on the top left corner, a silver circle about the size of a nickel. The battery is soldered onto connectors above and below, at two points on each connector. The next step is to break these solder points (carefully!) (Edit: I have found that my copy of Final Fantasy 3 has 4 solder points on each side, but all my Nintendo made games have only 2. YMMV.)
5. If you plan on soldering for the best connection (otherwise, skip to part 8), plug in your soldering iron, wait for it to heat up(it’ll change color when it’s done.) Set your razor against it, for a minute or 2. Slide the hot razor between the battery the top connector, push it against the first solder point. You will need to find a safe and comfortable position to push from– you will need a bit of leverage, but also be careful of your fingers and chips on the game. Be VERY patient– with enough reheating, pushing, and some cutting, the first point will come loose.
6. You have two choices– either repeat the process on the second point, or attempt to “wiggle” it loose. If you choose to wiggle it, be very careful not to snap off the connector or bend it completely out of shape. A little bending is fine.
7. For the bottom connection, cut the first connection the same way you did the first. For the second connection, wiggling is less risky since it’s the last one, but still be very aware of what you are doing and be patient. Each game is soldered differently, so make your best judgement call.
8. Either solder the New battery back on if you know how or tape it into place. To tape it, take a 2 inch piece of tape and place it under the bottom connector. Place the battery in between the two connectors and wrap the tape around it as tight as possible. You can even double up the tape, to make sure the battery won’t go any where.
9. Turn the board back over (battery-side down) replace it into the back cover of the cart. The slots it fits into are arranged so you won’t be able to re-insert it upside down, so if you’re having trouble putting it back in, turn it over!
10. Place the front cover of the cart over this. Remember the hooks that slide into the back cover? They make it so you have to angle the back cover down & away from yourself. Replace the 2 hexagon bolts. If the board still rattles, you might need to tighten the bolts down a bit more. If you taped the battery in, it’ll probably be a snug fit.
11. Pop the game into your SNES, play long enough to save. Turn the machine off, take the game out and throw it around. Tap it on a table, drop it, rattle it, be rought with it but don’t break it! This is just to test how secure your battery is in there. If you plug it back in and still have your save, congrats. Chances are, your battery is secure for the next 10 years.