Question about GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

2 Answers

My Ge Profile washing machine is not spinning, it goes through out the whole cycle but doesn't spin so the washing & draining works really badly, could it be the air bell housing? Can't afford a repair man, Can you please help me to find out what is the problem and help me to fix it myself. Thanks VM

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  • veromannion Oct 16, 2010

    Thanks for your diagnostic but i wish you could give me more details on how to fix the eventual things that i could fix myself, for example the first one is to check if the lid switch is not defective but i do not see the switch, could you please b more specific on where it is on my particular model and same with everything else that i could fix myself.



    Thanks



    VM

  • veromannion Oct 16, 2010

    I need much more specific details on how to find & replace parts that i could fix myself. I would like to check one by one every single possible problem that the 1st expert gave me but with his explanations being so vague it makes it difficult for me to do it.
    Thanks
    VM

  • veromannion Oct 19, 2010

    I never had a problem with the draining only the spinning.

    If it is the switch, I do not have the manufacturer's manual directions (how can I get it online for free).

    In the event you can provide me with picture's directions or a manual, and that I can finally locate the switch, then how do I know if it is the switch or not, is there any indication on the switch that could tell me if it needs to be replace?

    Thanks.

    VM

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,416 Answers

Hello,

There are several reasons that a washing machine won't drain or spin. The cause could be something as easy as a clog or something difficult that will need a licensed repairman. Start with the simplest possible cause and work down to the more difficult causes.

HERE ARE INSTRUCTION BELOW

  • A washing machine won't spin if the water can't drain. Check hoses for any kinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks, try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can't be straighten sufficiently, replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can be done by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs or running a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the rags and bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected. Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place. The washer should drain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem.
  • 2 If the washer still won't drain or spin, check to see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is not clicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the way down. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clicking sound, then the switch may need to be replaced. Follow manufacturer's directions for replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually check for signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place.
  • 3 Loose or broken belts could also prevent a washing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the wall and, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using the flashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken or loose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone who has replaced belts on a car, lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be able to accomplish the task.
  • 4 Another possibility for a washing machine to not spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, check the pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If the washer is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pump is running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to remove the pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one. Once the pump is replaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin.
  • 5 If all of the above steps fail to produce a washing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professional repairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washer and push it back against the wall
  • Hope this is helpful?

    Thanks and good luck.

    Posted on Oct 16, 2010

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    • GE Master
    • 3,051 Answers

    Hello there:
    It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these: The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

    Posted on Oct 16, 2010

    • 3 more comments 
    • Michael Thomas
      Michael Thomas Oct 16, 2010

      Hope this is very help full for you please keep me posted on how this repair is going so i can assist you if needed

    • Michael Thomas
      Michael Thomas Oct 16, 2010

      I will gather up all of the information that i vcan get for you and diagrams and send them to your profile or original post please give me some time ok
      Best regards MIke

    • Michael Thomas
      Michael Thomas Oct 16, 2010

























































      Figure 1-5: Testing Continuity








































































    • Michael Thomas
      Michael Thomas Oct 16, 2010








































































      2-6 TESTING ELECTRICAL
      COMPONENTS


      Sometimes you need to read a
      wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something.
      Sometimes you just need to find out what color wire to look for to test a
      component. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer.


      If you already know how to read
      a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. If you're one of those folks
      who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be
      too nervous. It will come to you. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1,
      right?


      Look at figure G-9. The symbol
      used to represent each component is pretty universal, and each component
      should be labelled clearly on your diagram.


      A few notes about reading a
      wiring diagram:


      Notice that in some parts of
      the diagram, the lines are thicker than in other parts. The wiring and
      switches that are shown as thick lines are inside of the timer.


      The small circles all over the
      diagram are terminals. These are places where you can disconnect the wire
      from the component for testing purposes.









      If you see dotted or shaded
      lines around a group of wires, this is a switch assembly; for example, a
      water level, water temperature or motor speed switch assembly. It may also be
      the timer, but whatever it is, it should be clearly marked on the diagram.
      Any wiring enclosed by a shaded or dotted box is internal to a switch
      assembly and must be tested as described in sections 2-6(c) and 2-6(d).


      Switches may be numbered on the
      diagram, but that number will not be found on the switch. Those
      numbers are there to help you follow the timer sequencing chart. Don't worry
      about the timer sequencing chart. We are only concerned to see if the
      switch is opening and closing. We'll let the design engineers worry about
      exactly when it opens and closes.




































      Figure G-9: Typical Wiring Diagram













































































































































    • Michael Thomas
      Michael Thomas Oct 16, 2010








      For example, to test the spin
      solenoid in our example, pull the red and white wires off the spin solenoid
      and test continuity across the solenoid terminals as described in section
      2-6(a).


      The push-pull switch, and
      switch number 10 are shown in bold lines, so they are inside the timer.
      Looking at the diagram, the push-pull switch controls a lot of other things
      besides the spin solenoid. Since those things are working O.K., we know that
      the push-pull switch can't be the problem.


      For now, let's ignore switch
      number 10. (Remember: the timer is the last thing you should check;
      see section 2-5(c).)


      That leaves the water level
      switch, the lid switch, the spin solenoid itself, and the wiring.


      Nine times out of ten, a
      component has gone bad. Test those first. Take power off the machine and
      check each switch and/or solenoid in the circuit as described in sections 2-5
      (a) thru (e).


      To check for a wire break, you
      would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity
      through it. You may need to use jumpers to extend the wire; for example, if
      one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath
      the machine. If there is no continuity, there is a break in the wire! It will
      then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic
      way. If you have a broken wire, look along the length of the wire for
      pinching or chafing. If there is a place where the wires move (like near the
      wigwag of a belt-driven Whirlpool/Kenmore,) check there first. Even if the
      insulation is O.K., the wire may be broken inside.







      INTERLOCKS

      Certain safety mechanisms are
      installed on almost every washer that can lead you to a misdiagnosis if you
      forget about them.


      For example, a Whirlpool washer
      will pump out water if the lid is open, but it won't spin. So you've just
      replaced the pump, and you're standing there with the lid open, admiring how
      well it's pumping out, when you notice it still isn't spinning. You dive
      right back into the back of the washer, trying to figure out what you forgot
      to replace...and the only problem is that the lid is up. Don't laugh; I'd
      hate to admit to you how many times I've done it.


      When diagnosing an electrical
      problem, there are many interlocks in the system that you need to check. (See
      section 2-7 below.) For example, if your basket won't spin at all, you will
      check all the obvious stuff (lid switch, spin clutch solenoid, transmission,
      etc.) But will you think to check the imbalance switch? If it fails, it will
      have the same effect as a failed lid switch. When tracing an electrical
      problem, check your wiring diagram to see if there may be any forgotten
      switches in the malfunctioning system.


      Here are a few of the more
      common safety interlock mechanisms to watch out for:


      LID SWITCH: Mentioned above, it prevents the
      basket from spinning while the washer lid is open. In some designs, it also
      prevents the tub from filling or the agitator from agitating while the lid is
      open.

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