Question about Midtronics Measuring Tools & Sensors

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I have a midtronics micro 420. every battery i test comes back bad if i set the cca at the right number. if i put the cca at 100 most come back good. example: i have a battery that calls for 450 cca. i set the test at 450. it comes back at 100cca on a brand new battery. so i tested other ones and the same thing. any idea on what it could ber

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  • airjordan127 Oct 16, 2010

    as a short do u think the computer board is bad because midtronics said a new board is 189 which i dont think is to bad of a price

  • airjordan127 Oct 16, 2010

    as a short do u think the computer board is bad because midtronics said a new board is 189 which i dont think is to bad of a price

  • airjordan127 Oct 17, 2010

    so what do i do to fix it

  • airjordan127 Oct 17, 2010

    so what do i do to fix it

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You have a faulty Voltage Divider resistor/Comparator IC in the unit, this is the part that actually is used to set and calibrate the unit.
They use proprietary parts, so your only shot at repair is to return the unit to Midtronics and ask them to repair it. Repair costs are very reasonable.
You need to contact them and inquire as to what to do. Website link below.

www.midtronics.com/

Posted on Oct 18, 2010

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The reostat inside beneath the dial is at fault

Posted on Oct 17, 2010

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Your tester has a short in it. Return it if you can. Otherwise get an estimate on a repair or a replacement. Joe

Posted on Oct 16, 2010

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Sounds like a bad contact between the Battery, reversed polarity but more than likely, your Battery is Bad. There is a difference between Volts and Amperage (CCA). Have the Battery Tested and you will more than likely find out your Battery is Bad. These Small Batteries do not last long (Warranty is 6 months).

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The Battery CCA Rating is to turn over the starter

CCA--Cold Cranking Amps
That is at zero degrees
Total cranking amps is at 32 degrees

The car runs off the alternator
It puts out over 14 volts

The 12 volt battery is 6 cells @1.2 v each = 13.2 v

You need 12.6 volts to test a car or you charge it first

You need over 13 volts to charge a battery,thus the alternator

The only other job the battery has is a stabilizer in the electrical
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So you need to have the charging system diagnosed as the
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That sounds like the tensioner wheel is not holding the serpentine belt tight enough to get full contact with the alternator. The spring on the tensioner arm can get weak. The whole arm and wheel is probably under $100.
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How do you check the battery status?


Check battery voltage using Volt meter=> it should be about 12.6 to 13.8 vdc.
Pull the battery out... checking the deforming at the case ..such as "swelling"... if yes .. replace the battery.
Replacement battery is about 10-20 dollars on e-bay (watch for shipping charge and size. and terminal connection sizes )
The average life of battery on UPS is about 5-7-10 years wi)th UPS plugged in (Charging
One I had my local Autozone checked my 12 VDC -8 AH ... ask them to set CCA at about 100 AMP...
for 12 VDC -14 AH ask them to set CCA about 200 AMP.
For a 12 VDC -75 AH (group 24) they set the load on their tester at about 700-900 CCA.
You can also buy a manual battery load test at Harror freigt tool for about $20 US dollars (On sale)

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OK, if the battery has 12.5 volts or so, the charger will say it's fully charged. But, the real test is to load test it and check for CCA which should be like 550 CCA and above for most cars.

You could purchase a new battery from Walmart, an auto parts store, or Sears, and before you purchase it, have them test the old one to see if it is bad or good.

Once, you have a known good battery, then you can try it in the car. If it just clicks and grinds but doesn't turn the engine over, then you know you have a bad starter in the car, which will have to be changed.

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