Yes all the powere entering the amp is good the + is 13,8- 14.2 so thats not it but the thing is all the parts on the power module board is smt and that **** hard to test to find the bad component so thtas y i was lookin for the entire board if that is the problem
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Blowing fuses, was caused by many thing.
Short of rectifier,resistor,elco,tube heater,tube pin, and also trafo itself (primary or secondary winding). It must check step by step. CAUTION :
THIS IS HIGH VOLTAGE AREA.
RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK THAT CAN KILL.
DON'T DO THIS IF YOU ARE NOT TECHNICIAN OR NOT FAMILIAR WITH VACUM TUBE CIRCUIT. THE CIRCUIT MAY STILL CONTAINS ELECTRIC SHOCK EVEN IF IF THE AMP IS NOT POWER PLUGGED.
The simple steps (see picture) are:
Disconnect all connection from secondary of power trafo (PLV,PDCH,PACH and PHV).
Power ON the amp. If fuse is not blowing,trafo is good.
Power OFF the amp. Unplug the cord.
Connect PLV1-PLV2-PLV3 (this are Bias voltage,+/-15VDC and Backlight PCB voltage) to power trafo.Power ON the amp. If fuse is not blowing,PLV circuit is good.If fuse blowing,there are parts is damage (dioda,elco,7815/7915,resistor) in this PLV circuit.
If step 2 is good,go to next step.
Power OFF the amp. Unplug the cord.
With PLV circuit stay connected,connect PDCH 1-2 and PACH 1-2 to power trafo. Power ON the amp.
If fuse is not blowing,PDCH and PACH circuit is good and all tubes heater/filaments are lights after a few seconds.
If fuse blowing,there are parts is damage (dioda,elco,tube heater pins) in this PDCH/PACH circuit.
If step 3 is good,go to next step.
Power OFF the amp. Unplug the cord.
With PLV,PDCH,PACH circuit stay connected,connect PHV 1-2 to power trafo.
Power ON the amp. CAUTION: HIGH VOLTAGE AREA is ON.
If fuse is not blowing,PHV circuit is good.
If fuse blowing,there are parts is damage (dioda,elco,tube pins) in this PHV circuit.
Steps had to be done sequentially from 1 to 4, not upside down.
If tube/heater pin is short,it can't be repair. The tube must be replacing.
PDCH circuit is voltage for V1-2-3-4 heater/filaments.
PACH circuit is voltage for V5-6-7 heater/filaments.
Star wheel motor assembly broken. HP part no Q6718-67017.
To confirm: Enter in to diagnostic menu as
Entering the Diagnostics Menu 1. Make sure the printer is switched off with the Power key on the front of the printer and not with the power switch on the back of the printer.
2. Press and hold the Up and OK keys. While holding the Up and OK keys down, press the Power key to turn on the printer, then release it while continuing to hold down the Up and OK keys. Wait until the HP logo appears in the front-panel display, then release all keys.
3. In the Diagnostics menu, select a diagnostic test with the arrow keys and press the OK key to begin the highlighted test.
4. Select scan axis > enter ok
5. Select star wheeler lifter > enter ok
follow the message.. check for the result.. If its OK then start wheel is good.. If any error persists.. you need to replace star wheel unit..
Only professional can do the part replacement, not suggestible to user to replace this part..
For technical guys:
1. Power off the unit, remove power & data(USB/Network) cable.
2. Remove formatter & housing
3. Remove front cover
4. Remove screws(Left cover)
5. Remove left side panel(ch 538-67005)
6. Remove pinch arm leaver
7. Remove left cover
8. Remove spit on
Follow the snaps:
lol, did the dog have a black nose, & whiskers missing.
& a bad case of sneezes....lol.
that's a new one on me, but a funny one.
you say you bought a new power supply? was that the full thing or just part of it?
if part of it & it was the plug side, then silly question but have you checked the fuse & wall socket....
if thats all good, the next you'll wanna check the top of the capacitors inside the console, swipe your finger over them, they should be perfectly flat & not domed up in any way, if they are replace with EXACT same type, some people think" if i put a bigger size capacitor in it will stop it blowing so easy again" NOT TRUE.
look for the obvious....black on board, & smell of burnning..
For the most part, it depends on the power output of the amp and the requirement of the speakers. Its a good idea to have at least 10% more power at your amp than what your speakers require.Find out what those values are if you don't already know and that will give you a better idea
that is very very vague. please check with a test light if the power is being interrupted after a min. or if blower motor is getting hot, drawing in to much amps and stopping. if getting hot or drawing in too much amps it is internal short. buy new blower motor. if power to motor is being shut off. maybe has a self reseting fuse and is being tripped by short in wire somewhere. good luck
press power botton thenpress F8.
Select these option " last known good configaration ..."
Enter then select OS,
Enter & watch.
after ready your laptop try to see those you like if the same things happend then format.
Thanks, i am waiting for your feed back & if you satisfied then thumps me please.
E064 Error code details Power supply voltage error (high-voltage error)
0000 The presence of a high-voltage error is communicated by the composite power supply PCB. (The output for primary charging, developing, or transfer has deviated from a specific level of voltage.)
Main cause The contact has poor connection. The wiring is faulty. The composite power supply PCB is faulty. The DC controller PCB is faulty.
Action 1. Contact Is any of the contacts of the primary charging roller, developing assembly, or transfer charging roller soiled? Or, is there poor contact? YES: Clean the contact, and set it once again. 2. Wiring Is the wiring between the contacts for the following normal: DC controller PCB (J301), composite power supply PCB (J136), primary charging roller, developing assembly, transfer charging roller? a. DC controller PCB (J301) <-> composite power supply PCB (J136) b. composite power supply PCB (J130-7) <-> primary charging roller contact c. composite power supply PCB (J130-1) <-> developing assembly contact d. composite power supply PCB (FT133) <-> transfer roller contact NO: Correct the connection. 3. Composite power supply PCB, DC controller PCB Try replacing the composite power supply PCB. Is the problem corrected? YES: Yes. NO: Replace the DC controller PCB.
pls rate for my good deed!!!!!!!!Good Luck
Power protect tends to mean the main power amp chip has "blown" and needs to be replaced.
It only costs about 20 dollars (10GBP).
If you are handy with a soldering iron it is easy to do (after you get the thing to bits !)
It is the big black thing on the big heatsink inside.
The Sony part number is STK442 - 130.
Seems a waste to throw the whole thing away for the sake of 10 pounds !.
Hope this helps. Nik Howell (firstname.lastname@example.org)
Ok If the power wire as well as the remote wiring was checked then you know the problem has to lie within the amp?? Yes it does. Do you know how to check b+ lines with a vom?? as well as use a schematic to trace one curcuit to another?? If not its best in my mind to have a pro look at the amp but if you really wanna try to see if theres something burnt in side by all means open it up look around and if you dont see anything out of normal such as burnt things crispy parts or fried wire then its time to unistall the amp and take it to your local repair depot. Now your local repair person may or may not be a sspecialist in auto amps?? If not My advice would be to ship your unit directly to the manufacturer for repairs. First thing you wanna do is look in the owners manual under troubleshooting . it will tell you where to call and if a RMA is needed(RMA means Return Materials authorization).Or contact the company at 1-425-788-0932 or online at support@millenniaCorp.com Good Luck