Question about Conair SW-2504GPH Corded Phone

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I have an old CONAIR CORPORATION phone, model sw2504; it has the cloth covered cord with the tightly wound metal spring at the end that attaches to the phone. I is push button dial and looks like the old phones from when I was a kid? I was just wondering about it and if it could be made into a useful phone now.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: Need manual for Conair Corded phone Model SW3414wcs

You can find the manual here:

http://www.conairphone.com/IBs/feature_telephone/sw3414.pdf

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

SOURCE: My Conair Phone CID 502 works except for some

Hi friend, I'm really sorry for your problem.. But it could be easily fixed. Don't worry.
>> Your problem may be due to the malfunction of any hardware parts in the device..
>> if your device was still in warranty period its easy to fix. Just give the device to the nearest conair service center along with your warranty details or bill. >> If not, It's better calling the toll free customer service number of your device manufacturer that will be in your manual.
>> If nothing works, then the best way to seek professional help. Get it to the nearest service center to make the device work for you.. All the best.. don't forget to vote me..
Good luck. :)

Posted on Jan 30, 2011

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
If the spring jumps out, hold it by the inside portion and start winding it up, pulling it tight to keep the coil small enough to fit back into its receptacle, . Once the spring is wound up and will fit into its position the problem starts. I found that gripping the spring with an alligator jaw vice grip will allow you to replace the spring and carefully release it without it going wild again, engaging the outer hook in its retaining slot or around its peg. Trying to feed the spring into position coil by coil seldom works, it has to be wound up outside and then inserted, especially on a small motor.
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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.

If the spring jumps out, hold it by the inside portion and start winding it up, pulling it tight to keep the coil small enough to fit back into its receptacle, . Once the spring is wound up and will fit into its position the problem starts. I found that gripping the spring with an alligator jaw vice grip will allow you to replace the spring and carefully release it without it going wild again, engaging the outer hook in its retaining slot or around its peg. Trying to feed the spring into position coil by coil seldom works, it has to be wound up outside and then inserted, especially on a small motor.

This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. If you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
If the spring jumps out, hold it by the inside portion and start winding it up, pulling it tight to keep the coil small enough to fit back into its receptacle, . Once the spring is wound up and will fit into its position the problem starts. I found that gripping the spring with an alligator jaw vice grip will allow you to replace the spring and carefully release it without it going wild again, engaging the outer hook in its retaining slot or around its peg. Trying to feed the spring into position coil by coil seldom works, it has to be wound up outside and then inserted, especially on a small motor.
This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. Please rate this response and if you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
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This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. If you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
If the spring jumps out, hold it by the inside portion and start winding it up, pulling it tight to keep the coil small enough to fit back into its receptacle, . Once the spring is wound up and will fit into its position the problem starts. I found that gripping the spring with an alligator jaw vice grip will allow you to replace the spring and carefully release it without it going wild again, engaging the outer hook in its retaining slot or around its peg. Trying to feed the spring into position coil by coil seldom works, it has to be wound up outside and then inserted, especially on a small motor.
This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. If you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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1 Answer

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This is a messy frustrating job, and if you had to put a price on the hassle that it is, it is probably better to pay somebody else to do it. That said, remove the starter cover with the cord and pulley inside. If there is a plate holding down the cord pulley, remove it and carefully lift out the pulley, try not to dislodge the recoil spring as this is where the frustration part comes in. Remove the old cord and insert the new cord end into the hole and copy the old knot - pass the other end of the cord through the eyelet in the cover. N.B. At this time take note of the direction that the recoil spring coil is orientated. Wind about 3/4 of the cord around the pulley and attach the start handle to the outside end of the cord. Carefully fit the pulley over the spring and place the cord into the cutout in the pulley. Wind up the pulley so that it engages in the curl in the inside of the recoil spring and further wind up the pulley in the opposite direction of the normal pulley start pull, holding the cord in the little cut-out so that the cord does not wind up as you wind the spring. It probably takes about 5 extra turns on the pulley to get the recoil tension right. Always hold the pulley in place to prevent the spring from jumping out. Release the cord so it can retract and replace the retaining plate. This is all if the spring does not jump out - which it so often does.
If the spring jumps out, hold it by the inside portion and start winding it up, pulling it tight to keep the coil small enough to fit back into its receptacle, . Once the spring is wound up and will fit into its position the problem starts. I found that gripping the spring with an alligator jaw vice grip will allow you to replace the spring and carefully release it without it going wild again, engaging the outer hook in its retaining slot or around its peg. Trying to feed the spring into position coil by coil seldom works, it has to be wound up outside and then inserted, especially on a small motor.
This procedure is as difficult to explain as it is to carry out. I have done many cord replacements and always dread the next one. If you have any problems, feel free to come back to me.

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1 Answer

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Oct 11, 2009 | Garden

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