I have a bridgeable 2 channel 800 watt kenwood amp. just recently my inline fuse on my power wire melted i think the wires may have touched. i put a whole new fuse unit in and the light on the amp doesnt turn on so im wondering if that may have blew the amp or if it is fixable
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there is a remote on-off power wire that is supposed to connect the amp to an internal circult, which only sends power when the car is on. you can tap this kead off the acc fuse, but the actual power needs to be ran directly to the battery, with an inline fuse under the hood
if it is 150 watts TOTAL power then you should use a 15 amp fuse. (150w / 12v = 12.5amps, 15amp fuse should provide the correct protection.)
if the system is 150 watts PER CHANNEL. then it will be 300 watts total and a 30 amp fuse should be used. (300w / 12v = 25 amps. 30amp fuse should be used.)
30 amp is normally the highest fuse recommended for an car audio system, so i would not use higher than this without taking the unit to a qualified auto electrician, to get the system checked for safety. if you have any further questions please feel free to ask.
make sure you run your power and ground wires opposite of the rca/speaker wires. you tend to pick up alternator noise when all wires are bunched up together. Also, make sure you have a good chasis ground to the amp, and the stereo has also a good ground. good luck
A single 4 ohm speaker wired to each channel, like you have them wired, presents a 4 ohm load. And it appears that you have them connected properly. The 401s is only stable to 4 ohms when bridged, so if you were to parallel the 2 4 ohm subs in bridged mode, the load would be 2 ohms and the amp would most likely overheat and go into protection.
I'd wire them the way you have them wired.
Each channel of the amp outputs only 100 watts into 4 ohms. That is adequate for regular full-range speakers, component speakers, mid-range drivers, and even some small subs. But it is a little low on power for most subwoofer applications.
I would recommend a brand named class D amplifier.
Connect both woofers in parallel (Positive to positive, and negetive to negetive) in a sealed enclosure. Make sure you have no air leaks. By connecting them in parallel the combined impedance will be two ohms. Make sure that the amplifier you choose can handle a load with that low of a resistance. Any high end amp should do this. Buy as much power as you can, but I would say a minimum of 1000W RMS. Beware of cheaper amps advertising "peak power". This can be considered half of what the RMS power would be (1200W peak = 600W RMS approximately).
Next, Run very heavy gauge (zero guage if you can) power line directly from the battery. Protect the wire where it passes through the body with a rubber grommet or otherwise something to keep the metal from cutting into it, and PUT A FUSE IN. I cant stress that enough. Put an 80 amp fuse in line incase you have an accident. Otherwise your car could very well burn!
Want even more punch?
Back at the amp, install the largest stiffener capacitor you can afford 1 Farad or bigger. Install this in a space where it would be protected in the event of an accident (on the inside of the strut tower or somewhere above the axle). There is a whole lot of energy stored in there that you don't want unleashed on you!
This amp isn't bridgeable. It's a mono amp (only one channel). You need two independent channels to bridge. Some mono amps are bridgeable if you have two identical amps but I don't think Kenwood recommends that with this amp.