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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
open bleeding nipple slightly insert anything flat and push back piston ,lock bleeding nipple put pads in and pump brakes
Posted on Aug 29, 2008
SOURCE: cylinder head skim
From my understanding, the combustion area of the head should have a diameter that is the same as the cylinder i.e. 56mm. If you took 0.5mm from a standard head, your squish would PROBABLY be Ok, however, you need to measure this. Its quite easy, poke a piece of solder wire in to the cylinder via the spark plug hole and trap it between the piston and the head by gently turning the engine over with the kickstarter by hand. Remove the squashed solder wire and measure with a set of vernier calipers. 0.8mm is about right and as Elf said, anything below this is getting a bit close. Do this for the front, back and left and right of each cylinder. Reducing the squish only has only a moderate effect on the compression ratio and does not require higher octane fule. I did this for mine and it was fine - so you 'should' be Ok.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cyl and get some one to slowly push the pedal see if any fluid shoots out if not you may have killed the new seal in the master cyl.
it sounds like you did every thing right its just that old cylinders get were in them and if you don't hone them out and put a new sleeve in them quite often you will rip the new seal apart on the first pump of the pedal.
any way check for presser and let me no
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
When replacing battery in yamaha GP1200 when attach negative cable the unit seems as wants to turn over the engine while the unit is off and no key in place.. also notice in seconds that the battery terminal on negative side started smoking..actually melt the new battery terminal on negative side..yes, postive was connected to positive. Any ideas what why this would take place??
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
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