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Safety Light flashing, will not reset, no purge. PCT 80 (50ft) connected with no apparent damage. Input air ok, 240v, new electrode and nozzle. There is a red light lit on the output board, there are three red lights lit on the control bd ( 2 left side and 1 top)

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: safety light

check the gun lead all the way back to unit,if there is a nic or cut in that lead (main power lead)the unit will not fire,sadly you cannot fix the lead ,it has to be replace with new one,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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co7196
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SOURCE: when air is hooked up it blows the air regulator

Air pressure should be no more than 90#s. If regulator cannot handle at least 125#s . Get a new regulater. Sounds like this regulator has a blown diaphram.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

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SOURCE: problems with Lincoln LINCOLN ELECTRIC K1756-1

Try using fine sand paper and clean the tip of electrode and the thing that looks like thimble, another solution was don't tighten tip cover too much back off a little til you ge good contact. some units don't like to be clicked ON without making contact with working metal, you may get two or three clicks and then nothing til the air stops flowing.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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Error init 50 how can i solve it


You need to Reset the Purge and Flush Counters.
Press Menu and Black Start (Mono Start) keys in this order. Next press the UP ARROW Key four times (all in less than 2 sec) The LED will indicate MAINTENANCE or it will be flashing.
Enter 8 and 0 using the UP ARROW Key and OK after each Number.
Press the Black Start (Mono Start) key several times until the purge (or flushing) count appears on the LCD
Then input 2,7,8,3 to reset the purge. Do the same for Flush. Then Press STOP. After input 9,9 to Reboot the machine and exit

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System will not start up after a winter's rest!


On page 41 of the manual, a no-display indication can be related to a loose ribbon cable (check the cable is fully inserted into the connector), or a loose or bad connection at the white connector between the transformer and the PC board ("Check connector at white plug to insure proper connection. If burnt connector contact authorized service representative.")

As you operated the pool during the winter, did you remove the sensor and replace it with an optional spool piece, or did you leave the sensor in operation and perhaps subject it to freezing? The sensor can be permanently damaged if it was subjected to freezing.
Try removing the cell and cleaning it.

First I would go through and check all of the connections. If they are OK, and as this occurs after you make the connection to the electrode, I can't help to wonder if the electrode is clogged or damaged beyond repair.

The correct method for winterizing is section 6.5, on page 40, of your manual.

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Hi Trevor

If you measured 240V at the input side, how about output side did your measure any volts their?

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My oil burner trips the m.c.b, what is the cause?


Commonly Reported HVAC Problems: [Copyright © 1996-2011. Hannabery HVAC. All rights reserved.]That would be the little red button on the box at the oil burner itself. If your oil burner stops running the first thing you should check is the reset button. If you press it and the burner fires up then that was the problem. If the button should trip again then there is a definite problem and you should schedule a service call immediately. Do not keep resetting the button and ignoring the problem. afg-redbut.jpg Now, what is this button and why does it trip? It is a safety device. It shuts the burner down when it thinks there is a problem. It is on the primary control and is hooked-up to a cad cell. A light sensor. (The same thing that turns outside lights on at dusk.)
On a call for heat, with the burner running, the cad cell senses the light of the flame. If it stops sensing the light of the flame, it causes the red button to trip, shutting down the burner before any significant damage is done. Next question. Why would the sensor stop sensing light while the burner is running? Many reasons. Almost all of which require a service call. Below is a list of possible causes and things to check. Items in blue usually require a service call. Items in red however can be addressed, even fixed by the homeowner.
  • Faulty or dirty cad cell
  • Faulty primary control
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  • Bad fuel pump
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  • Delayed oil valve not opening (some units)
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  • Burner running with a very high smoke
  • Burner sooted-up
  • Loose electrical connections
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  • Water in oil tank

  • Out of oil - Have your tank filled
  • Chimney blocked - Have it cleaned
  • Closed oil valve - Open valve
  • Air, Pump not primed - Prime pump - may need to call for service
oilfilters2a.jpg
Oil filter refills oilfilter1a.jpg
Oil filter canister eksmart.gif
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The bottom causes in red are common problems and can be addressed by the homeowner. Try to check for these conditions first before calling for service. Hope this helps, remember - these are just rough guidelines and not all possible situations are covered.

I found this article on the Web So I can't take credit for it..... But it is a very good place to start for your problem It is what I would start checking if you called me for service .......Good Luck

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1 Answer

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1/8 inch at the tips 9/16 from the center of the nozzle to the top of the electrodes and 1/8 inch out in front of the nozzle..... I am assuming you are talking about an oil furnace.....

Mar 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My coleman oil fired furnace will not lite and the electrodes are new and set and transformer is fine all with new nozzle and fuel has a good spray


sounds impossible.if transformer is ok then yuo have high voltage and spark.or are you saying low voltage is fine?are you getting spark at electrodes?since you didn't say you have spark,i'm guessing no spark follow wire back to board,check for high voltage with neon light,you only have to get it close.if no voltage then high voltage coil is either bad or not getting power

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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varies from burner to burner to burner , should replace with the same as you removed , the numbers are very important on the nozzle one of the numbers is the degree of the fire pattern the nozzle produces ex. a 90 degree or 80 degree etc . this is determined by the way the fire box in the furnace is insulated . the other number is gallons per hour of oil the furnace is set up to use , ex. .70 gph or .80 gph all of these numbers are critical and should not be changed except by an expert or you could damage your furnace and could possibly be dangerous . the numbers will be on your old nozzle and should go back with same one , as to the adjustment , they also vary ,but i can give you one that will usually work for most furnaces , that is one eighth inch space between electrode tips , five eights in front of nozzle port opening , and one half inch above center of nozzle center , where the hole is . bleed all air out of system after installing nozzle , let me know if no fix have more ideas

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