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I have a kenmore c970/46261-1 cook top.when diconecting the wiring in kitchen renovation I did not properly mark two wires. incoming cable fuse #1@2 frt , #3@4 rear burners. there are three wires/black,white and ground/ BL.and WH go to the junction bar/no problem/ there are four fuses on top of the box. first fuse: one red wire permanent part off cook top harness one removable two red wire harness - one goes to fuse #4 , the other wire ?????/dont know , it has a bare end no terminals Fuse#2: one permanent brown wire one removable two wire brown harness - one goes to fuse#3, other wire ?????/dont know ,it has a bare end- no terminal.

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SOURCE: Would this work or burn

This should work just fine as long as the breaker it is going to is at least 20 amps as this is the amount of amps that both fans would be drawing at once if the were both on. The 12/2 wire should be plenty to supply the 20 amps needed for the fans.

Posted on Jan 02, 2010


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KItchenAid microwave KHMS1850S: interlock switches replaced, but fuse keeps blowing

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A fault of too much cleaning.

NEVER clean inside a microwave with a ball of kitchen type stainless wire wool.
I did, a tiny piece of wire too small to notice stuck to the glass door; a fairly long microwave cooking session melted and fused the wire to the inner glass of the door; there was a snapping sound and inspection revealed that it, the inner piece of glass, was finely crazed and too dangerous to use.
The cooker, a superb Brother manufacture (no longer made) was ruined; a replacement piece of glass being unobtainable.

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First of all check the inside of the cooking area for chips in the paint and burn marks. If there are none then you may repair this unit. Open it up and check the many thermal overloads for open circuit. Then check for burned wires and repair any if found. Then replace the fuse if blown. Then change the magnetron and possibly the capacitor. Also verify that the door closes properly and that the circuit board has no burned components or burned circuit traces. Sometimes the relays stick and need replacing but that would not cause the breaker to trip.

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it might have short circuited. also check the cable for any break in the line.also take the back of the micro wave and check for any broken wires of pulled out wires.

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I have a dead GE Advantium 120 Microwave in my RV.

This heat could have come from excess current draw due to a failing part, such as the magnetron, or an improper voltage level at the outlet. It should measure 105-125VAC.

A loose connection can also result in heat and melting.

I would recommend replacing the section of wire that's melted. You need to make a good solid connection with proper wire nuts and solid crimped connectors.

If you think the TCO may have been stressed, it should be replaced, too.

I would also check the fuse holder by seeing if you can twirl the fuse with your bare fingers while it's in the holder. If so, then it is too loose and the holder must be replaced.

You cannot just squeeze it tighter with pliers, because metal fatigue will make it go loose again, possibly resulting in a melted fuse.

Lastly, I would replace the primary interlock (top door switch). See

Then make sure that no one opens the door while the oven is cooking unless it is specifically called for in the cooking cycle. Opening the door while it is cooking leads to premature switch failure and heat / melting of the switches connectors and wiring.

You can find the full service manual online here.

Yours may have the revised circuit. You can see the "mini-manual" for that version here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.


At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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1 Answer

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Both of you have suffered at least a failed fuse and these are nearly always inside the housing.
Sometimes the fuse (which are calibrated pieces of special wire) will fail from metal fatigue but it can also mean that either the heavy current, high voltage rectifier that produces the magnetron voltage or the magnetron itself has failed.
Some units have separate fuses for the control and display electronics and another, very high current (~30 Amp)  fuse for the magnetron circuit.
Do not attempt to open the unit unless it is, and has been, unplugged for an hour or more.
Gaining access is generally not difficult and either the back panel or top can be removed with a half-dozen screws. The fuses may not always look the same but the most common is a ceramic case with metal ends and it might be pushed into a simple fixture that snaps over the metal ends.
If you do not own a simple digital multimeter, I recommend buying one. They are available from various sources; electronics and auto parts stores will have them for under $20 US or if in the US, check your local directory for Harbor Freight outlets. I have bought several for $3.00 there and scattered them around vehicles and the normal junk drawer in the kitchen. Even the simplest of these will have several basic ranges and the resistance range is the one used for checking that fuse.       Remove the fuse from its clips and measure it between the metal caps on the low range (often 200 Ohms). If the display does not change, the fuse is blown; if it shows something in tenths or at least below 10 Ohms, it's OK.  
If you care to delve further into your microwave at all instead of replacing it (they have gotten almost too cheap to repair), comment back here again and I will try to guide you further.

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