Question about Rockford Fosgate Power 351M Car Audio Amplifier

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I have this hooked up and works fine with the key on, but when i start the car, sub light, amp and sub dont come on.

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  • Corey Elliott Oct 15, 2010

    I have the amp going to the battery with a fuse, and the remote wire to the solenoid. it has power when the car is running.

  • Corey Elliott Oct 15, 2010

    I checked the wires with a aligator clip and light. The power cable and remote wire both light the light, but the light on the amp does not come on.

  • Corey Elliott Oct 15, 2010

    The power cable goes to the battery with a fuse, the remote wire is hooked up to the solenoid. The amp works fine when the key is on, but when i start the car the light on the amp dont come on and the sub dont work. I do have power to the amp when the car is running. I checked the power cable and remote wire with a test light.

  • Corey Elliott Oct 15, 2010

    I have a new altenator and a Red Top Altima battery. Will a storage capacitor work ? I will get a voltmeter and check it also.

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Double check your power wires. Your power wire should come from the battery. The ground wire should be connected to a good chassis ground and the remote wire connects to the radio remote wire. The remote wire turns the amp on whenever the ignition is on. Sounds as if you might have the remote wire connected to acc power or auxillary power.

Posted on Oct 15, 2010

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Strange. Because, if the ignition is on, the power from the ignition should turn the sub light, amp and sub on if connected to the fuse box correctly, or the wire that is connected to the ignition that is switchable.

Posted on Oct 15, 2010

  • Duane Wong
    Duane Wong Oct 15, 2010

    Maybe try to run the remote light to the fuse block for the ignition instead of the solenoid, if that's possible.

    I might consider using a spade that goes into the fuse box, right at the switchable ignition in order to see if that works better than wiring it to the solenoid.

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You have connected it to the wrong power wire - one that is only active in service mode - first key position.
You should draw a wire directly from the battery (don't forget to add a 40 amps fuse on the wire) to the amps. If you don't want them constantly operational (you will have to manually shut them down) install a relay on the wire with the command coming from a wire from the instrument key position - second position of the key. Use a voltmeter to identify the wires.

Posted on Oct 15, 2010

  • Azrael SRL Oct 15, 2010

    In that case check the voltages, if they drop below 12 volts (like when you start the car) the protection kicks in and prevents the amp from starting. And use a voltmeter , a test light is useless here.
    If it does drop below 12v then the battery doesn't have enough power for both the engine and the amp - you need a bigger one, charged by a bigger alternator.

  • Azrael SRL Oct 15, 2010

    You haven't mentioned the amps output of the alternator - you will need one that is capable of aleast a hundred - the one originally in your car delivers only 55 , far too low - or the capacity of the battery - it should be of at least 85Ah. If you got just standard replacements then definitely they are underpowered.
    A storage capacitor will definitely help, but cannot compensate fully for an underpowered alternator.

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