Question about KitchenAid Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: kitchen aid stove problem
First...be sure you cut power to the stove before you do anything. This is 220 volts and it can kill you. 220 Volts is based on two different lines of power coming to the stove, each of which is 110 volts...but opposite each other in phase. This may mean that some power to the stove is on and some is not. Let's go on.
I suspect a few things: First, the coil control for the burner is probably finished. What I also suspect is that it opened one of the two breakers (they are usually tied together in the panel and are either 40/50/60 amp units) causing some lights but no action.
What to do: Reset the breakers as a pair by turning them off and on. If one snaps off, you have a problem at the stove. If not,...which I doubt...you're in business.
Let's look at replacing the control. Shut the breakers. Now, take the burned control and remove it. Note the wiring positions if they are not on a plug. If they are terminals, tape the ends. Now, reset those breakers. If the other burners work, replace the control. Take the old one to the parts store. If it doesn't work, look around the burned area for broken wires. Repair and tape them up. Try again. Oh, and don't let anyone touch the stove while you're working with those breakers.
Posted on Dec 03, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore electric range
The problem is caused by a shorted BROIL relay on the Electronic Oven Control board. I have experienced this problem before. The oven will continue to heat because it's being provided a constant power source. You are right to assume the reason for the oven temp error. This is common too.
Here's a TEMPORARY fix you can try:
1. Secure power to the range and remove the back panel from the console.
2. Unplug the BROIL element wires from the EOC and wrap them with electrical tape. It should be marked on the circuit card.
This will leave your broiler out of service, but you should be able to use the bake function. This should only be a TEMPORARY fix. The real fix is to replace the EOC. In the mean time, DO NOT leave the range plugged in while not in use (especially, if you are not going to be home, or while sleeping). This could be a definite fire hazard. If you post back with your model number (located around the oven door, or bottom drawer opening) I can give you an idea of how much the EOC would cost, and give you advice on how to replace it.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
We had those same symptoms with our range out of the box. It was a problem with the PC board and it was fixed under warranty.
Posted on May 28, 2008
Pull the range, remove the back cover and locate the thermal switch and the oven TOD. Check both parts for continuity. Replace any of them if it's open.
The thermal switch
The oven TOD
- The part number for the thermal switch is AP3799085
- The part number for the oven TOD is AP3086326
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
This is the Membrane switch which is faulty. I had mine replaced once already. These units cannot be repaired, they need to be replaced. Apprently it is very common and you should report this to your local ESA (Electrical saftey authority) this is a very dangerous problem. The ESA can have this item recalled if enough people lodge a complaint. The round Stove top knobs on these Ranges also have a tendency to switch on when bumped, very dangerous too.
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
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