Question about Pitco Frialator 35CS Deep Fryer

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Buner does not shut completly off. flame lingers near orifice. how determine if its the gas valve or temp control?

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The thermostat is a snap action. It is either completely on or completely off. The combination valve may be letting a little extra gas pass by the main valve. Unless it is a significient amount of flame or it continues for more than a minute or two, just keep an eye on it. It is not unusual to see a tiny flame at the orifice, but it usually dies out in less than a minute or so. You can get a rebuild kit for the gas valve. The complete valve is around $150.00. You will need to get the model number and the serial number of the fryer, to buy either the valve or the rebuild kit. If you are very confident in your abilities to do a gas valve rebuild it should take a couple of hours to remove the valve by removing the main gas line, then the manifold that runs to the burners. You will also have to remove the wires that run to the high limit switch and thermostats. Be sure to mark the wires as you remove them. The gaskets are very fragile. As you take the valve apart lay everything in order so that you may retrace your steps in putting it back together. There is an exploded view of the valve in the rebuild kit. You MUST check for gas leaks before lighting the fryer after you have rebuilt the valve. With the gas pressure on, but the pilot not lit, spray the entire valve with liquid leak detector, available at the same place you get the rebuild kit. You can also use dishwashing liquid, but either way look for bubbles at all the gasket locations as well as the gas pipes and manifold that you removed. If you see ANY bubbles, don't light the pilot. Start over with new gaskets. Hope this helps

Posted on Oct 17, 2010

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About 90% of the time someone complains about burner flames or heat it is the check valve needing to be reset. I explained this earlier but let me know if you need to know how to do this.
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I suggest the check valve solution with the drip tray removed so you can look from under the control panel for gas leaking through the air holes in the venturi tubes. Also, remove the control panel and leak-test the valve with soapy water because if previous flashing occurred the first casualty is usually the seal between the valve and the gasket which can lead to more leaking gas.
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On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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Carrier furnace ,burner not staying on after 4th try shuts down completely.cleaned the flame sensor but noticed the 3rd and 4th burner has a delay in lighting by the time the 4th burner lights and hits the...


Remove them and scrub them with a wire brush.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

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