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I have installed a Unilitech timer. The timer switches lights on but will not turn them off. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and the programming. What is wrong and how do I correct it?.

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Unilitech or Utilitec?

I tested the Utilitec and wrote a page showing larger instructions:
The page also has a section that shows how to double check your wiring
To help folks who buy this timer, I tried all the wiring combination. I hooked red wire to white Neutral wire and blew out the timer. So don't do that. And to square up with Lowes for selling a product that has tiny instructions and no website, I took back the blown out timer and got another one to experiment with.

Enough of world problems:
Your timer could be defective, so we'll keep that as the last answer.

Here's my best guess why Lights turn on but don't turn off:
Other timer manuals say that if programs conflict, then the timer will not perform as expected.
For example if program 1 says ON at 7 and OFF at 8, but program 4 says the opposite or has overlapping times.
Other manuals recommend that people make a spread sheet of times before programming the timer.

Up-vote if this information helps. Thanks for the feedback.

Posted on Oct 15, 2010


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I have a EI600WC timer installed (by electrician) in my garage to control outdoor christmas lights (outlets in eaves). The switch will not turn the lights on!

Yes 100' maximum is problem. To work around problem, you can use timer to turn on a contactor, and then the contactor is not limited to 100' distance.
Copy following link to see wiring diagram, and you can wire it yourself:

Assuming timer was installed correctly ... did timer work when first installed, and then die?
This timer cannot be exposed to freezing temperatures because the battery will die in cold temperatures.
Ei600 timer is 5-year warranty version of ST01C timer, and both have same wiring and same battery.
Copy following link to see programming, wiring, and battery replacement

If cold battery is problem, suggest using GE 15312 timer from Home Depot that has same 100' maximum and same load rating characteristics and same programming capability as Ei600 and ST01C, but GE timer is powered by the circuit and not a battery.
You can install timer yourself.

Nov 29, 2011 | Intermatic EJ500C - Indoor Digital Wall...

1 Answer

I set my timer last night. the lights went off at the designated time this morning, but now the light is blinking. What does that mean?

Troubleshoot section in manual says, 'recheck wiring.'
Cut back insulation on stranded wire so stranded is longer than solid, Then wrap stranded around solid, and apply wire nut. After nut is tight, pull on stranded wire to make sure it is not loose:
Check light bulbs are tight in socket. A fellow had same problem with programmable timer and discovered light sockets were dirty and not making good contact with bulbs.
If wiring is correct, try resetting timer.
Timer could be defective.
EJ351 has 1 year warranty against workmanship defects.

Open following link for resources:

Take a moment and rate answer:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Sep 02, 2011 | Intermatic Programmable 24 Wall Switch...

1 Answer

I have installed the Utilitech timer switch # 0141224 with all of the wires connected as they are explained in the installation packet. The timer works and turns on the lights, however it only turns on 4...

Utilitec is single-pole timer.
Wiring sounds correct. Lights will blink if timer white white is connected with timer red wire. Lights will not turn ON if timer red and timer black are reversed. Green to ground is not necessary for timer operation.
Check light bulbs are operational.

Bundle of white wires are neutral wires.
Timer white wire requires neutral connection to complete circuit to timer electronics.

If bulbs are good, it is likely that loose white wire is problem, since each of the outdoor lights also needs neutral wire to complete circuit.
Having 6 white wires connected together, plus stranded wire from timer, takes a large wire nut, and that many wires can have a wire fall loose without notice. You can solder wires together, or break the group apart under different wire nuts with a jumper wire between.


Aug 15, 2011 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

1 Answer

I am replacing a programmable timer switch that controls exterior garage lights. This switch is in the same box as a ac switch that turns on the lights inside the garge. There are 3 rolmex wires inside the...

Project is not clear.
Are you replacing the timer with a switch?
I have complete files on timers, so if you are replacing the old timer with a new timer, then add a comment and say which timer you are installing.

You have 3 cables. Assuming 120Volts.
Each cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground.
White wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Ground wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Black wires are next:

(A) Cable A:
One of the three cables will have a black wire that connects to both the switch and to the timer.
So look for the black wire that connects to both switch and to timer.
This is the hot wire from breaker box. Connect this black wire to both switches including new switch.

(B) Cable B: One cable goes to garage lights. Black wire going to garage lights connects to on-off switch.
So the garage light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

(C) Cable C: One cable goes to outdoor lights. Black wire going to outdoor lights connects to new on-off switch.
So the outdoor light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

Jun 27, 2011 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

I have installed a Utilitech timer switch #0141224 on one of three switches. The switches are all in a row but I only want the last (rightmost) switch changed out. Do I need a jumper from switch 2 to 3? ...

You are replacing single-pole switch, then 0141224 is correct choice.
It sounds like your have wiring wrong.
No jumper is needed from other switch, all you need are two wires from replaced switch plus a neutral wire.
Open following link for detailed wiring instructions and online manual.

Add a comment and ask about particular part of manual or wiring if needed.

Apr 20, 2011 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

1 Answer


If I understand correctly, you have Sylvania 170 timer and the display doesn't light up.
If you have different problem, add a comment.

A) If this is existing installation and timer display worked correctly before, then it sounds like timer malfunctioned or power to timer is interrupted. Check breaker, and then pull out timer and test for power.

B) If this is new installation, then 2 possible things:
1) Timer defective: exchange for new one.
2) Timer not wired correctly.

Review wiring:
Timer replaces single pole switch.
Single pole switch has two wires
Timer has 3 wires: Blue Black White
Timer has additional wire to run internal clock and to light up display.
If timer not wired correctly, then display will not light up.

Here is correct wiring:
a) Two wires from switch.
b) Connect timer-blue wire to one of the switch wires. Choose either one for now. You will have to choose other wire if display doesn't light up.
c) Connect timer-black wire to other switch wire.
d) Timer-white wire does NOT connect to either switch wire. Look in back of electric box. There are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. These are neutral wires. Connect timer-white wire to neutral wires. This will power the clock and display.
e) If your box does not have the white wires described in d), then connect timer-white wire to bare ground wire.
f) Turn power ON. Does display light up?
g) If display lights up, switch is wired correctly.
h) If display does not light up, then reverse timer-blue wire and timer-black wire shown in step b) and c).


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1 Answer

Flickering bulbs

You posted under EJ500 Intermatic battery-operated timer.
If you have different timer, add a comment.
I have tested EJ500 timer.

A) If this is new single-pole installation and lights click on-off when timer turned on, then you connected red wire where blue wire should be connected.

Manual says for single pole switch:
Timer-black-wire to Hot; Timer-blue-wire to Load (lights)
Here's how to wire timer correctly:
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Switch has 2 wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-blue-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) Put wire nut on red wire.
4) Turn on electricity, and push ON-OFF button. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-blue and timer-black wires.

B) If you are replacing 3-way switch, view wiring diagrams shown on link below, and then add a comment saying exact color of wires. To wire this timer for 3-way can require additional wire between switches. This is because EJ500 blue wire must always go to Load (light, fan, motor)

C) If this is older timer that stopped working, check your bulbs. Then check timer battery. Manual says if timer stops working and bulbs are good, and battery good, then reset timer and reprogram. How to reset timer. Press reset button while holding down Next/ON-OFF button.
EJ500 manual has long list of programming instructions: Add a comment if you forgot parts of programming.
EJ500 manual

Nov 28, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. EJ500C Digital Wall Switch...

1 Answer

My lighting timer seemed to have burnt out. We thought that the switch was bad, because light was out - replacement one does not work either.

If I understand correctly you installed a new timer and it does not work.
You posted under EJ351 timer.

Problem sounds like it's electrical instead of timer.

1) Check electricity at wall box where timer is located. Remove both wires from timer. Separate wires for testing. Turn on power. Test each wire to bare ground wire. If box has power, then one wire will light up tester. This is Hot wire. Next test Hot wire to white wires inside box to make sure circuit can be completed to the neutral. If box doesn't have Not or Neutral then check other local boxes on same breaker to find where loose wire is.

2) Check that Load (light, fan, motor) is not burned out ... you can do this by putting regular light switch in place of timer. Box must test positive for Hot and Neutral wire.

3) Check that breaker is delivering 120V. Test from screw on breaker to any bare copper wire inside breaker box. Tighten screw on breaker. There is a white wire associated with black wire on breaker ... track this wire over to neutral busbar and make sure it is tight.

4) If electricity checks out, then timer is suspect. You may have gotten bad timer.

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1 Answer

Clock not working

the white wires that come from the clock need to be connected to both of the "line" terminals. If you have them connected to the "load" side, it will cut power to the clock once it turns off and it won't turn on again... hope this helps...

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