Question about Kenmore 95172 / 95174 / 95179 Electric Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: BEEPING OVEN
The F1 and constant beeping is an error code indicating that your electronic control board (clock/timer) is defective. The fault cannot be reset and the control board must be replaced. This can be an expensive repair if your range is no longer covered by a warranty or service plan. The cost to buy a new control board can be in the neighborhood of about $200. Sorry...but I do hope this helps you.
Posted on May 12, 2007
I just did the self clean option and when it was done I received the error code E1 -F5- and it does have to do with the door latch. After turning off the power to the stove I was able to open the door and wiggled the latch and that solved the problem.......
Posted on Oct 24, 2007
SOURCE: kenmore oven has f3 code
What you have is a fried relay on the board. the contacts are stuck, Find the board and yank out the wire marked Br1 and see if the broiler shuts down. Do youur findings while the machine is without power amigo. More than likely you needs an expensive new control board. You could just remove and tape off one of the broiler wires if the bake still works.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
SOURCE: f-1 error code on kenmore
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Sep 23, 2010
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