Question about GE GSH25JSTSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: freezer no frost
This is probably due to the failure of defrost timer or the heating coil..Try this
1)The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
2)If this doesnt work then Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
SOURCE: Viking freezer frost build-up
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
The thermostat is not functioning the way it should leading to frost build up. You need to replace it. Should cost you around 40$
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
sounds like ayou could be having a problem with the defrost system pull the back cover off and you will see a metal bracket about half way up the coils and one at the bottom some models just have the one at the bottom these are defrost heaters check and see if one is burned out if so defroset replace heater and you will be ok if heaters are good check at the top of the coils there is a small round thing cliped onto one of the coil lines with 2 wires coming out of it this is a defrost bimetal or defrost thermostat now for this check the bimetal has to be cold and you need an ohm meter it is a simple test when cold it should read close which with and anolog meter will peg the neddle a digital will read 0.0 -0.2 this means this part is good if the needle does not move or you get no reading it is bad replace it now if the heaters and bimetal are good there is and evaporator thermister also located on the evapoator it is a small white look like a small bulett it could be sending the wrong information to the mother board this part is about 10.00 and the mother board on theif you still have a problem im afraid to say you mother board is bad replace it and you should be good to go with out all the snow it runs about 150 - 200 dollars depending on who you get it from.
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
This is a fairly easy problem to solve. First thing you will need to do is defrost the ice on the inside back panel of the freezer. Then remove the back inside freezer panel. You will need to remove your freezer shelves to do this. Once the panel is removed you will need to defrost the coils and surrounding area. Once defrosted you will see your defrost heather on the bottom of the coil and a defrost thermostat on the top of the coil. The defrost thermostat is about the size of a quarter and about 3/4 inch thick. It will be mounted on the coil line. If you have a multi tester you will be able to check continuity through the heater by unpluging it. The defrost thermostat is a bit more tricky to check. It will not read continuity once it is warmer than 50 degrees. The defrost thermostat is a fairly inexpensive part so if your heater is good you may want to just replace the defrost thermostat and see if the problem goes away. The other possibility would be your control board. It is located on the back of the refrigerator and has a metal plate covering it, with sever 1/4 inch screws. This board causes most failures on your model refrigerator. Also a point to remember. This board has had several new upgrades from the one originally installed on your refrigerator. So make sure if you get a new one that you get the listed number I have given you. The older ones are cheaper but they are also not updated and will not function properly on your refrigerator. The following parts listed are the possible parts you will need. Please let me know if you need one and I can ship it to you in about 1-2 days. I do not charge shipping and I give free advise. Thanks and good luck with your frost problem. you can reach us at.
defrost thermostat. #WR50X10068 $21.57
defrost heater #WR51X10042 $56.50
control board #WR55X10656 $185.50
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
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