Question about GE PSC23SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
In most cases it is the Defrost timer circuit. One of three things the Defrost time (most likely) it allows the cooling for a 6 to 10 hour period and the defrosting for 10 to 30 minutes to remove ice buildup, ICE BUILDUP is the main problem as it restrict air flow, the cooling air circulation through the system. You see cool air only comes in the freezer side and passes through vents (pass ways) to the refrigerator side. Ice buildup in the freezer side inhibits cooling air to the refrigerator side. You think the freezer is working, but it is only cooler because there is ice in there that you can't see. The Terminator (a LIMIT switch) opens the defrost circuit if the defrost heater gets too hot (second likely) the next is the Heater which heats for those 10 to 30 minutes to melt the ice buildup (least likely) no matter the Unit you have they all have this circuit... Hope this helps, I'm Tango
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
i have seen this problem before
its the control board in the back the board is about 150 dollars
and it goes every DING DING 5 years lol
horrible design of the one that comes on the fridge every ge side by side has this problem
its very easy to replace but have to "ground" yourself before you touch the new control board meaning rub you hands on plumbing pipes, not pvc or copper
good luck if you got questoins let me know
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
Had the same problem. Bottom of freezer was about the right temp but the upper part was way too warm. Fridge side was fine. Ice maker stopped making ice - it wasn't broken, but it won't run through its cycle if the temp is too high. Cubes already in storage hopper melted and water refroze as it ran to lower, colder part of fridge. Problem: Fan controller for freezer compartment was faulty. The fan itself was fine. Fix: GE replaced the main circuit board that controls everything on this model, including the freezer compartment fan. Once that was done, temp returned to normal, ice maker is happy again. The board had undergone several revisions from the factory installed one (could tell this by comparing the part number on the old and new boards - they increment it when they revise it.) Bad news: the part/labor were expensive and of course failed after the warranty ran out. Good news: the board is now guaranteed for 5 yrs. (Why wouldn't the factory-installed board ALSO be good for five years instead of just one? It's not like the replacement boards are made better.) Labor is covered only for 90 days though so it won't be free if they have to come back after that.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
At the bottom of the freezer door ( remove the kick plate ) , there will be a water line . Follow this line , about 6 " to a connector . Push in on the white ring and pull out the line , at the same time . Activate the water dispensor pad and see if water flows from the line under the refrig . If it does , then the line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . If no water comes from the line under the refrig , while activating the pad , then replace the water valve , behind the refrig , the piece the wall water line connects to on the refrig . GE also has a dispensor heater , to help keep this from happening again , if , the water line is frozen . Pt # WR49X10173 .
BB ..... refrigerators are not your AoE .
Posted on Dec 16, 2009
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