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Westinghouse sb915 will not heat element shows 25 ohms when tested.

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  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2008

    same problem

  • Anonymous Jul 28, 2008

    Hi there Westinghouse SB915 have the same problem, yeah checked element was 25 ohms which is ok , then traced wiring, neutral side orange wire goes back up to the timer control to a relay on the circuit board solder joint was burnt on the circuit board resoldered but still didnt work asuming relay is faultly will replace relay when I track one down
    the service people wanted $250 dollars for a new circuit board .



  • Trevor C Sep 06, 2008

    Hi

    I have similar issues in that the heater is not working, the PC board looks OK. Where do I measure the resistance of the heater element? And is it possible to replace the element?

    Trev

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2009

    Thank you John! I had the identical problem and the identical solution. Model number SB907. The dry cycle did nothing. The wash cycle hardly cleaned the dishes. I didn't even bother checking the heating element. I just unscrewed the inside of the front pannel and then opened up the white plastic cover. You have to pull out the wires and squeeze the white peg to fully pull the circuit board out of the white unit. On the back side, I saw the identical problem as the photo John loaded. For a second, it seemed like he took a photo of my circuit board. I just sanded then put a spot of solder where the previous one burt off. Then re-assembled. No special skills required other than you know how to unscrew and rescrew screws and know how to melt a small amount of solder.

  • vladimir Rajcevski Nov 28, 2011

    HI , I have an SB925sj, I am wandering if you could share some more info on HOW to test the heating element and the thermal switch? unfortunately it is not clear from the diagrams I can find how to do the measurements nor how to remove the heater. My control boeard seems good on siteat least.

  • John WS Mar 21, 2012

    Great forum guys, I read through previously added information, this helped me diagnose and fix my Westinghouse SB915 Dishwasher issue.
    My dishwasher's circuit board, as per the photo by John McKirdy (thanks John), had 'dry joints', presumably from the heat build-up from the constant washing & drying at very high temperatures. I accessed the circuit board (a bit tricky but ok, be careful - unplug lead, if necessary), then with soldering iron, added more solder to the 'dry' (or not shiney) 'joints', being careful not to touch circuit board components (as some can be static sensative) and being careful not to apply excessive heat to circuit board or circuit board pads (point of component connection).
    Since I re-soldered, my dishwasher has worked faultlessly for 6 weeks now.
    Thanks again guys, this would have saved me about $250, I'm guessing. Thanks.

  • Sharon B Apr 22, 2012

    Thankyou all for posting! Our SB915 had the same issue of a cold dry cycle. Soldering the circuit board worked for us too :-) We were going to buy a new dishwasher until I read this!

  • Ken Moschetti
    Ken Moschetti Aug 30, 2014

    Kenny Thank you all. I would have gone looking for the heater element. Exactly as shown my circuit board was burnt on that shown contact. Will attemp tio fix it now but you saved a lot of wasted time and money for me Thanks again Kenny

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Westinghouse SB907 had same problem, which I had thought might be the heating element. Fixed relay soldering on PCB where it was burnt/melted, now works! This probably applies to the Westinghouse SB925 also.

Westinghouse sb915 will not heat - 11_29_2012_8_44_33_am.jpg

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

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  • John McKirdy Aug 25, 2008


    Here is a pic of the PCB showing the solder missing from the relay pin. I fixxed this by using some solderflux and then enough solder to bridge the pin to the solder along the track. I probably should have scraped the solder mask off the track around the pin for an even better connection.

  • John McKirdy Sep 09, 2009

    Update: A week after repairing the solder, the dishwasher stopped heating water again. I replaced the relay. I has been working fine ever since (more than a year!).

    Replacement relayed I used is: OMRON G5LA-1 12DC Farnell code 1455504

    Alternative relay: MULTICOMP HRS4E-S DC12V Farnell code 9479988

    Possibly also suitable: FINDER 36.11.9.012.0000 Farnell code 1217372

    Sorry it took me so long to post the update.

  • avalonbeach Sep 05, 2011

    thanks for the pics - what an easy fix - baby due in a couple of weeks didnt need any additional expenses... you're a lifesaver

  • Glenn Dec 03, 2011

    I love the power of the internet and people like you. I saw this solution with the picture (which is a godsend for me) and pulled the dishwasher front off, got the soldering iron out and went to work. I have just run the dishwasher through a cycle and it seems to be working fine.
    Thankyou very much
    Glenn

  • Johannah Campbell
    Johannah Campbell Sep 30, 2012

    Thankyou so much for this- especially your picture!!! Had the same problem, which we lived with for a year. I had read this page a couple of times, but hadn't expanded these comments to see the picture. Without it, we certainly wouldn't have had the confidence to try it ourselves. A couple of helpful friends and family referred me to the image. Any chance you could post it again as a new solution?

  • Johannah Campbell
    Johannah Campbell Sep 30, 2012

    Ours, btw, didn't look anywhere near this bad.

  • John McKirdy Oct 01, 2012

    I could even find the photos myself, and wondered if they had been removed. I didn't realise it was necessary to expand comments after each solution. I will post as a new solution.

  • Johannah Campbell
    Johannah Campbell Apr 07, 2013

    Just had to do this again, with success. It only worked 3-4 months. I guess we'll be repeating the process every 3 months until we get sick of it and buy a (better quality) new dishwasher!

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Same thing happened here. Repaired the board by soldering a piece of tinned copper wire from the relay pin to the good PCB track. Has worked fine now for more than one year since the repair.

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

  • David H Oct 22, 2011

    Thanks for the tip! I had exactly the same problem and also fixed it by resoldering. In case others are wondering, the control board is located behind the dishwasher's front cover.

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Great forum guys, I read through previously added information, this helped me diagnose and fix my Westinghouse SB915 Dishwasher issue.
My dishwasher's circuit board, as per the photo by John McKirdy (thanks John), had 'dry joints', presumably from the heat build-up from the constant washing & drying at very high temperatures. I accessed the circuit board (a bit tricky but ok, be careful - unplug lead, if necessary), then with soldering iron, added more solder to the 'dry' (or not shiney) 'joints', being careful not to touch circuit board components (as some can be static sensative) and being careful not to apply excessive heat to circuit board or circuit board pads (point of component connection).
Since I re-soldered, my dishwasher has worked faultlessly for 6 weeks now.
Thanks again guys, this would have saved me about $250, I'm guessing. Thanks.

Posted on Mar 21, 2012

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Thanks for the solution.
I had the exact same problem, and almost the same solution.
After I opened up the PCB, the joint that looks burnt in the photo, seemed a bit dry. So I resoldered that and a couple of others. But it still didn't heat up. Then I desoldered the relay, thinking that I may need to replace it. But wen I tested it, it was ok. I then found that a diode (almost right next to the relay) was short circuit, so I replaced it with another one (just pulled one from an old electronic junk pcb in the garage).
After all this, ..................., IT IS working!!
So it seems that they have stuffed up the design of the PCB around the relay. May be engineer has been fired by now, or given a raise for generating so much after-sales revenue!

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

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I had a slightly different issue whereby the heater was apparently intermittent and sometimes would not dry completely (though it did seem to get somewhat warm most washes, and wash ok to some extent). Checking the PCB I found Dry Joints (but no burning) on the relay and re-soldered them. This has solved the issue. Thanks for the help!

Posted on Nov 06, 2008

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Guest, Used this website as my SB915 was having the same problem, Ive had people out, No sucess, this was my problem as well, the exact same solder joint. Thanks Fixya, thanks John Mcirdy, the photo was extemely helpful

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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Thanks for all the comments here. Had the same issue and was thinking of replacing the dishwasher but thanks to the suggestion here, saved a few coins (and the planet too).
I also noticed cockroach bits when I opened the unit up, and before I closed the unit up, I used some good multi insecticide spray there. Hopefully that would minimise further infestation.
Keep up the good job guys!

Posted on Dec 06, 2014

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Westinghouse SB915Thanks John McKirdy. Had the same problem as per circuit board picture except mine was not burnt, once I re soldered the joints for the relay and it all worked again. The problem with my dishwasher was intermittent, sometimes would heat up, most times would not. Was really not looking forward to calling someone out to fix an intermittent fault.

Posted on Jun 12, 2012

Rechecked it put it all back together and its all working on heat again ! yeah yeah !!!!!

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • lateralconst Jun 02, 2011

    Awesome Guys good bit of collective analysis, starting with John M's. trailblazing!
    My situation is that it was not heating & then the module stuck on fragile wash. I de-powered for a couple of hrs & that gave me the use of the module buttons again. Still no heat. Pulled the kick panel off (after cutting adjustable legs down to get panel off
    & resistance ckd the element =28.6 ohms. Ok Near enough to 25. look for the module. No dry joints,
    relay (on board) looks intact, so put it all back together to do a test run to chk for current.
    Prewash 0 Amps. Wash 0-8.6A. HEAT! On to start & then switching on & off. Guess this is the T/stat . kicking in. Seems a colder than I am used to.

  • Rony Nov 17, 2012

    Hi, Could someone please post how to take off the PCB, does all the screws of the inner door panel needs to be taken out? Ron

  • Rony Nov 18, 2012

    Problem solved! I figured out the top screws of the inner door holding the control panel, there are 6 screws in total to remove, 2 are located vertically and holding the lock, once screws out the panel can be pulled out.Thanks you guys for the help.

  • Brian Collins
    Brian Collins Dec 08, 2013

    Thank You, Thank You Thank You it is now working Fine again Thank You. Brian in Australia

  • Jason Ling Dec 31, 2013

    Thanks guys Problem solved There are actually 8 screws to be removed to be able to access the circuit board 4 across top inside of door + 2 (one each side) + 2 for the lock mechanism (vertically as Rony said) I got access to my circuit board (in behind the display and buttons) I accessed the circuit board and found blackening around a large resistor/diode so I re-soldered it and my heating problem was solved Thanks Guys

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Hi there Westinghouse SB915 have the same problem, yeah checked element was 25 ohms which is ok , then traced wiring, neutral side orange wire goes back up to the timer control to a relay on the circuit board solder joint was burnt on the circuit board resoldered but still didnt work asuming relay is faultly will replace relay when I track one down
the service people wanted $250 dollars for a new circuit board .

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

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4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
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To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
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