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Re: no 120v to fan motor
It sounds as if this may have electronic controls on it. If so, the problem could be related to too low of an ambient temperature or too low humidity in the air. If this design has a temperature sensor built into it, you may be experiencing "hibernation mode", where the unit will appear to be dead, when it is actually awaiting the proper temperature to employ itself. The following statement is a parameter for all dehumidifiers and some of the control issues may vary, but the theory is the same.
Most dehumidifiers have a "Frost Guard" mounted on the condensor coil. If frost accumulates on the condensor coil the frost guard turns the compressor off until the frost melts, then comes back on again. For the dehumidifier to work properly, the surrounding (ambient), temperature must be higher than 65 degress. This temperature allows the moisture in the air to condense on the coils and drip into the reservoir without freezing up on the condensor coil. Also, if the humidity is too low, (below 45%), the same condition will occur. So it will help to keep the parameters in mind when you have this issue.
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Verify the humidity reading with another device. Perhaps the humidity sensor is dirty or bad.
Another possibility is the switching device that runs the compressor and fan is shorted. If it's a mechanical relay, the contacts may have welded together, or if it's a solid-state relay, it's got a punch-through or meltdown in a device junction. My guess is it's a mechanical relay since you mention it used to click on and off and now you don't hear that. The relay may be on the control board, or it may be mounted separately - I don't have a photo or diagram of the inside of your model available.
if you can check by an electrical tester then first open control panel and check electric(main electric ) supply is reaching till the selector switch if its reaching supply the try to turn your selector switch on fan mode and check the connecting point of selector switch electric supply is now come on fan supply point ( where motor wire is connected that point ) if its working like this then its mean selector switch is ok and problem in fan motor , its need to replace .
I would look for another outlet for you to plug it in before you start anything elaborate. I assume you've done this already but spin the motor/blade. If it spins and there is little or no play in the shaft or blades causing a blade to bind up the mechanical part seems ok.
Now if you have a volt meter First check the motor for voltage, Then if you have voltage, compare it to the rating on the motor. Usually a voltage within 10% is ok. Next test resistance on the wires of the motor any resistance and the winding is probably okay. If not then the motor is out again. If you have lost voltage the control board is your next part to test. No voltage out to the motor there on the board plug and the board is the problem Power there woudl mean the motor has too high a resistance and Id check the resistance on a differant known good motor before replacing it. just so you know where you started.
It gets a little tricky from here! If it were mine, and with my experience - I would try to measure for power going to the motor, but that may involve more dismantling. Dangerous voltages are likely to be present so don't attempt this if you are not qualified to do so! If there is power going to it, then logically the motor is defective. If there isn't , then it points to the control circuitry. In the former case a new motor might get you going again - if you can find one; if there is no power going to it then the fault lies elsewhere. If you are very lucky it might just be a dead relay on the pcb. Beyond that point I have learned over the years that some things are just not designed to be fixable :-( The pcb may have been made years ago in a factory on the other side of the world and we consumers are just expected to go out and consume a new one dehumidifier.
You can try cleaning the humidity sensor, which is on a circuit board housed in a nylon clip attached to the cooling coils. The sensor is in a plastic clip, which can be opened up and cleaned. Some report success. Didn't work for me.
I ended up rewiring the unit so that a 5v control line from the lower relay board goes through the SPDT bucket full switch, turning on the control board when full (so it beeps), but otherwise enabling the compressor and fan. The fan and compressor are controlled by relays, which are driven by a ULN2003AN relay driver. I fed the empty side of the full bucket switch back into the relay driver to turn on the compress and the fan on high. I plan to put a dehumidistat in series with this control line; now it just runs till the bucket is full. A Broan DH100W dehumidistat is 20 bucks. Could also put in a rotary switch to control the fan speed, but for me high is enough.
I think this machine is made by Goldstar for Kenmore and Delonghi. Stuff is just made to break and through away these days, which is a shame.
Disconnect the motor leads for the fan motor, check the resistance through the motor when an Ohm meter. If you get no reading on the meter the motor is bad and needs to be replaced. also check the motor by rotating the fan. If it rotates with resistance the bearings may need lubrication. If it is a sealed bearing motor and no points for lubrication are there, replace the motor.
THE FAN MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE OILING PORTS ON THE MOTOR. IF NOT, THE MOTOR NEEDS REPLACED. IF THERE ARE OILING PORTS ON THE FAN MOTOR, TRY SPRAYING SOME WD-40 IN THEM AND THEN ADDING SOME LIGHT MACHINE OIL TO THE MOTOR. THE OILING PORTS ARE SMALL HOLES AT EACH END OF THE MOTOR WHERE THE MOTOR SHAFT EXITS THE MOTOR HOUSING.
You can purchase a new fan motor. But the same problem will probably happen again. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a yellow thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the red wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working (in effect it was an open circuit). Once replaced the motor worked fine. this is the second time in about two years that this problem happened. The first time Sears fixed for about $100 and three weeks. This time I saved the money and did the repair myself. I would guess you could buy a new thermistor for about $5.00 from a parts house like digiKey or National Electronics. You will need to know how to use a soldering iron to repair this.