Question about GE WBB4500EWW Top Load Washer

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Oil leakage oil laeks into tub when spinning,taken most parts out of inside,cant get screw loose to replace rubber seal on shaft any suggestions

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Its a reversed screw
not the righty tighty lefty loosey
its righty loosey lefty tighty

its because of the drum spinning the drum cant come off in this bolt direction

Posted on Jun 13, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi my sf 80hj washing machine leak below ( rotating shaft) sos thank


A rubber gasket (seal) must be replaced. This seal connects the bottom of the tub to the rotating shaft (Agitator shaft).

A variety of factors determine how long these rubber gaskets last befroe they start cracking.

The seal is available from most appliance parts stores (local and on-line). The trouble is replacing it, it take about 2 hours for an amature and some major disassembly. Removing the agitator, the inner tub (the one that spins after rinse cycle), and some shaft pieces.

Cost for a repair technician will be about $150 to 200 (guess only - I am not sure about the rates in your town).

Good luck.

May 23, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

5 Answers

Amana dlw330ra, loud and leaking


HI,

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Aug 11, 2008 | Amana DLW330RA Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Spin cycle comes on but unit won't spin at all or very slow. also ther is some oil under gear box


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities: since it will spin. None of the suggestions are very expensive.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If you pull the gearcase, you may see oil around the top cover.

You can remove the 8 bolts carefully (It holds 15 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil) and re-seal the cover. I'd also check the plastic seal between the clutch and gearcase that keeps oil from leaking from the top of the gearcase.

Sep 30, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Water leak from cooling system, carn't see a water leak and have tried a bottle of rad weld, but its still loosing around a litre of water to every 50 miles. Any suggestions for self repair and where to...


If there isn't water obviously appearing from somewhere it's either a head gasket failure or radiator cap. Check the oil filler cap for emulsion. Just hope that it's the radiator cap.

Oct 20, 2009 | 1996 Volvo 960

1 Answer

Whirlpool duet washer leaking from underneath


You will need to remove the lower kick panel directly below the door to gain access to the inside cabinet to see where the leak may be coming from. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.

NOTE: Propping the two front feet of the washer up with something (a 2x4 works well for this) will give you better access to the screws.

The most common source of leakage on this washer is the rubber bellow around the door. It can develop cracks or tears over time and require replacement. A tell-tale sign is the front counterweight (looks like a concrete block on the front of the wash tub) looking wet. The counterweight will remain dry if the tub is sealed properly. From the inside of the washer, pull the rubber folds back on the door bellow and inspect the perimeter for any rips or tears. If the bellow is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385211-replacing_door_bellow_whirlpool_duet

If the bellow is intact, check the rear bellow seal where it connects to the front of the wash tub. If the clamp comes loose the bellow can shift and begin to leak. Tighten if necessary.

Check the drain pump and hoses to ensure they are not leaking. The drain pump is directly in the front under the wash tub.

Check the area directly below the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the wash tub iteself, you may have a bad tub seal. A replacement gasket doesn't cost much at all, but the labor involved is extensive.

Another simple problem is the dispenser tube(s) that come through the door bellow. Sometimes, these small tubes will work their way behind the rubber in the door and leak when the washer attempts to fill or rinse. This is a simple matter of adjusting the tubes to ensure they are seated through the door gasket properly.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: You can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some excellent exploded view diagrams of your washer for reference in locating components.

Sep 07, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore HE3 washer leaking all over the floor! Only 6months-1 year old!!


You will need to remove the lower kick panel directly below the door to gain access to the inside cabinet to see where the leak may be coming from. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.

NOTE: Propping the two front feet of the washer up with something (a 2x4 works well for this) will give you better access to the screws.

The most common source of leakage on this washer is the rubber bellow around the door. It can develop cracks or tears over time and require replacement. A tell-tale sign is the front counterweight (looks like a concrete block on the front of the wash tub) looking wet. The counterweight will remain dry if the tub is sealed properly. From the inside of the washer, pull the rubber folds back on the door bellow and inspect the perimeter for any rips or tears. If the bellow is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link epxlains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

If the bellow is intact, check the rear bellow seal where it connects to the front of the wash tub. If the clamp comes loose the bellow can shift and begin to leak. Tighten if necessary.

Check the drain pump and hoses to ensure they are not leaking. The drain pump is directly in the front under the wash tub.

Check the area directly below the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the wash tub iteself, you may have a bad tub seal. A replacement gasket doesn't cost much at all, but the labor involved is extensive.

Another simple problem is the dispenser tube(s) that come through the door bellow. Sometimes, these small tubes will work their way behind the rubber in the door and leak when the washer attempts to fill or rinse. This is a simple matter of adjusting the tubes to ensure they are seated through the door gasket properly.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 29, 2009 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3t Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Ge top load washer leaks from over flow during spin cycle


check your pump it may be partly plugged if it is try to clear or replace pump

Aug 06, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My kitchenaid mixer is leaking from the part that spins?


I took mine apart and all the grease had settled down around the shaft in the housing due to lack of use,found no seal.Going to spread grease back up on gears,see what happens.I found this at KitcheAids web site.Good luck.
Why do I see oil leaking from the beater shaft of my stand mixer?
Some KitchenAid® stand mixers that are not used very often or have been tipped may experience slight oil leakage from the shaft or hub attachment. To avoid the oil leakage, KitchenAid suggests that you run the mixer weekly for short periods of time. Generally, the mixer may lose approximately X cup of oil before repair is necessary. The oil used is FDA approved and is not harmful to consume, should any get into the food that you are preparing.

Dec 01, 2008 | Food Mixers

2 Answers

Rear tub bearing replacement


The shaft on the spinner basket may have worn and formed a groove, or, if the bearing seal was leaking, the shaft may be stuck because of rust. The best way I know how to get the spinner basket out, is to try spraying the shaft with a lubricant like penetrating oil, or WD-40 and letting it sit a while. Allow the lubricant to settle into the area where the shaft seats into the bearing. If this does not provide you with any luck, place the outer drum face down on something to elevate the spin basket up off the floor. I suggest using a couple of saw horses, or blocks of wood. Allow the outer shell to rest on supports, leaving the spin basket free. Place some padding or old towels on the floor underneath the basket. Take a mallet (I prefer a rubber mallet, as it tends to be less abusive) and tap on the end of the drum shaft. The spin basket should pop free and drop from the tub shell. I hope this helps you.

PS You only have to elevate the basket and tub off the floor enough to allow the spin basket to drop free of the tub. About a foot is all I would recommend. Make sure you inspect and clean the spin basket shaft once you get it removed. Some very fine emery paper is what I would recommend to make sure the shaft is not scored or have any rough areas. DO NOT use any electric sanders or dremils for this! It should be clean and smooth before re-installing. If you cannot get the basket free, or if you do, and the shaft is damaged, you may consider replacing it as well. Placing a damaged shaft into a new bearing may not seal properly.

Aug 28, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

3 Answers

Frigidaire front load washer model GLTF1670ASO


Check the shocks on the bottom of the drum. I had the same problem and had to replace the shocks because they were broken in half.

Mar 02, 2008 | Frigidaire GLTF1670A Front Load Washer

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