Question about Pioneer PRO-630HD 58" Rear Projection Television
Hi please find above a link for your service and repair manual, you MUST use one of these to even begin to have a shot at a repair.
This is a fairly classic switchmode power supply, there is a fault within the set, that is so bad, and this has been detected by the SMPSU, which is then shutting down the set to avoid a fire, explosion, or both. This set has developed a problem, that is so severe that the set must be shut down immediately, and all power except for standby, and if severe enough, then even that will cut off too. This set should now, be totally removed from the Power, and in my professional recommendation, you should get a "Quote" for repair, from, an, Approved Service Center, this point is very important for a good result, Always contact, their local, "Head Office" Pioneer, in your case. Now, when you get the information you want, take it to, or get them to call, either way, always get from the repairer a "Quote" first, before proceeding with any repairs. Then at least, you can decide as to repair of replacement. The reason we want an approved agent, is that way, all the engineers are trained on their own brand sets, they have seen almost all faults, and will get the job done quicker, and for less cost, and usually have original parts on hand, also sometimes, there has been a service bulletin in issued and the repair may be subsided or even free.
However, If you really want to have a go and try to repair your set, well OK. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Posted on Oct 14, 2010
I dont think a reset code is goig to help this problem . You need to check on the power supply board and in the Middle is a 6.3amp Fuse CK to see if it is blowed, If OK Then check all the pico fuses they will look like resistors but will be either Green or Yellow 5amp,6amp,7amp fuses
They if they are good STK ICs mighht need to be replaced STK392-110s 2 of them .
Mats Electronics has all of these Parts 1-800-628-1118
Posted on Oct 13, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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