The air conditioning unit outside is <2 years old. The thermostat on the wall has power, as does the entire house. All circuit breakers are on. The light for energy saver comes on, but will not turn on the air conditioning.
Look for a leak in the system, this is because, if you have a leak there is a low pressure switch that prevents the compressor to turn on when there is low or no refrigerant pressure.
Also, perform a pressure check, this is about 68.5 psi and 70 psi with the system and compressor running.
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Soot is a sign of incomplete combustion. Cleaning may or may not fix the root cause of this, and given the age/efficiency of the unit, I recommend replacement. If you do have it cleaned, be sure to have the combustion checked.
As to whether this is a DIY project is dependent upon your personal skills, but the fact that you asked is (sorry) a strong indication you should not attempt this job yourself. Hope this helps.
You did not make it clear if the thermostat is a programmable unit or not. I am wondering if the thermostat is not set on the correct heat anticipation setting. A heat anticipater is a small heater that helps the thermostat turn off before it over shoots the desired temperature setting. If the thermostat is set for a 5 degree setting, it will turn off at 63 degrees if set at 68. If the anticipater was set at 1 or 2 degrees, it will shut off the heater at 66 or 67. Newer thermostats will only allow the thermostat to cycle 6 times per hour so if you never reach the desired temp, you have to wait 10 minutes before it will allow a call for heat. Check the installation instructions to see if there is a setting where you can get the anticipator temperature closer to your set temp. Good luck.
without more info it sounds like one leg on led readout went bad , i hate to say but you need to replace t-stat, in the mean time if you go to breaker panel and shut off power to both the (a/h and cond.)inside and outside unit take t-stat off the wall and disconnect all wires there should be green,red,yellow and white wires.If this is the case take yellow,red & green and twist these 3 together and put a wir nut on them.then turn power on to both units and this will get you a/c the only problem with this is, unit will run constantly until you either diconnect wires or turn power back off. hope this helps
start with making sure you have aclean filter, after that make sure the blower speed is at the proper setting when the air conditioning is on---usually either high or medium high for a fixed speed system, make sure the return air vents are not blocked or restricted as well as the delivery vents not close or restricted to cause too much static pressure ( back pressure at the delivery side can reduce air flow across the a-coil ) also make sure the insulation sheet that is usually above the a-coil is not being blown down across the a-coil entryside when the blower is on. After checking all these, if you find nothing you should start by having the pressure checked --- basically comparing the pressure at the "outside unit" to the pressure at the "inside unit" or a-coil. these are high side and low side pressures. Have you done anything else to the house----attic vents, new soffits, insulation, etc that may be affecting heat gain in the house.Is it a house, mobile home or what?
by the outside unit, you will have a shutoff. pull out the shutoff, and unscrew the cover. 2 cylinder like fuses are inside. It is likely that one or both are bad. When you turn on the AC and the outside fan does not turn on... this is likely this is the solution.
These old units have a simple gas valve and a separate regulator. Your best bet may be to replace the gas valve to something more modern. Trouble shooting this most likely be a waste of time, as parts probably aren't available, other than the thermostat. by-pass it, (connect the 2 wires together) and see if it comes on. The blower shouldn't stop the burner to come on. Sounds like the gas company doesn't want to crawl under there to light it.
Behind the unit near the floor level, is a yellow wire with a black bulb at the end. This is the actual sensor for returning air. If there is cool air infiltrating the area where it is located, it will keep the unit running until the return air reaches temperature. You could also have a bad sensor but highly unlikely. Make sure there is no air infiltration influencing the sensor. Also, you can unclip the sensor and pull out a few more inches of wire to locate it higher up away from the floor. Tie it up with a wire tie.
Rinnai it testing a remote thermostat but as of yet, there is no plans to offer one.