The air conditioning unit outside is <2 years old. The thermostat on the wall has power, as does the entire house. All circuit breakers are on. The light for energy saver comes on, but will not turn on the air conditioning.
Look for a leak in the system, this is because, if you have a leak there is a low pressure switch that prevents the compressor to turn on when there is low or no refrigerant pressure.
Also, perform a pressure check, this is about 68.5 psi and 70 psi with the system and compressor running.
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That happened to us. It was a broken pump, pump was up in attic. attached to our inside air-con unit. We had it fitted on an inside wall of the house, and so a pump must be installed to take away the condensed water to the outside of the house. Hindsight being 20/20 I would never buy one that needed a pump to get the condensed water out of the house. We would have put it an outside wall where the water goes straight outside, no pump needed. Our First pump lasted just over 2 years so warranty was expired. Cost us over NZ$500 to have new pump installed. Never again. Only attach your unit to an outside wall, even it looks prettier on the wall where it would need a pump. Bottom line:- Don't touch a pump. Pump was cheap but labor cost for serviceman astronomical! Bet of luck.
I am not understanding exactly what is happening with your unit. You say it only runs for 4 hours a day and then say that after 4 hours the outside unit shut off. But you don't describe the condition of the outside unit! Is there ice on your outside unit after it runs for four hours or is it so hot that the housing would fry an egg? Since it works for four hours and then stops working, I would guess that ice forms on the condenser grill which tells the thermostat that your air is much colder than it actually is. Then it takes time for the ice to melt off again. Am I close? If so this condition is usually caused by your unit being low on freon making everything work harder. But it could also mean that you have a leak in the system somewhere. But it shouldn't be much of a leak or it wouldn't run for the 4 hours. I would recommend you charge it to the correct level and then check for leaks.
If it's only 92° outside and the unit won't cool the house, then the unit is either to small or it's low on refrigerant. They are designed to cool a house with outdoor temperatures up to 115° to 120°.Usually you need one ton a/c for every 400 square feet of house, but, you have to take into account for average outdoor temperature and humidity, windows, doors, especially sliding glass or patio doors and which side of the house they are on, insulation in walls and attic.
The air leaving your duct work going into the rooms should be about 20° lower than the room temperature, if you have a 80° room then the air leaving the duct should be around 60°. if it is then the unit is probably to small if, everything is working properly.
If both fans runs (inside and outside), check if the compresor runs , if does probably the unit is low in freon and needs to be recharged after the freon leak has been fixed (remember this is a seal system and it shouldn't leak), but if the compressor doesn't work , it could be the capacitor , the pressure switch (if it's low on freon ) or the compreessor itself.But befor do anything ,if you have a digital thermostat replce the batteries.
If the outside unit is running and the inside unit is not, probably a problem with the fan motor itself or its capacitor. If you have to have someone repair or replace the fan $200-$250 with parts, a capacitor for a service call and part $100 or so. Check it yourself first to see if there is anything obvious broken wire, hot connection, etc if you feel safe doing that. Turn the power off first. There is also a chance the thermostat could be the problem. Have you tried running the fan on the thermostat "fan on" setting?
transformer has just 4 leads. 2 for primary which is your 110 volts and 2 for secondary which is supposed to be 24 volts ac. if you splice the two secondary wires coming out of your transformer, you should be able to get a 24 v ac there.
the box that you are referring to could be a fire controller that in case of fire, it would shut off the fan and the compressor outside.
This only could 1--2 things, a bad circuit board fan relay or bad thermostat. To check for bad thermostat, take off the front cover to reveal the 4-wire terminial and jump the red-wire (power)-cool,(yellow -y or blue)--- green--fan white-(heat)..........red to yellow-or y=cool. Thank-you-very-much!
If the compressor turns off and won?t come back on during a very hot day, the unit may have built up a high "head" pressure and the high-pressure limit switch may have tripped. This is usually located right inside the access panel on the compressor unit. Simply push the button to return it to operation.
If your central air conditioner doesn't go on automatically:
1) Be sure the thermostat is set to "cool" and set below room temperature.
2) A central air conditioner should be on a dedicated 240-volt circuit; check the main electrical panel and any secondary circuit panels for a tripped breaker or blown fuse. If you find the problem here, reset the breaker or replace the fuse.
3) Make sure the furnace power switch is turned on and that the outdoor condenser's power switch, mounted on the outdoor unit, hasn't been shut off. Also be sure the 240-volt disconnect next to the compressor (in a metal box, usually mounted on the house wall) hasn't been shut off.
4) Turn off the power to the air conditioner and check the thermostat.
5) Remove the thermostat's cover and unscrew the wire from the Y terminal.
6) Turn the power back on.
7) Holding the wire by its insulation, touch the bare end to the R terminal and hold it there for about 2 minutes. If the compressor kicks on, the thermostat is faulty; replace it or call an air conditioning technician. If the compressor doesn't go on when you hold the two wires together, turn the power back off and call a service technician.