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I own this 0525151 and am trying to spray a latex fence stain. worked for a little while, then nothing. I tried thinning the paint with water and a paint thinner product recommended by the Home Depot guy...nothing. It is a think paint, but I thought thinning it would work. It didn't. Any ideas?

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We used paint sprayers every day for years.

Tips come in different sizes. With oil base paints we used the small tip like a 4-11. With latex we used bigger tips, like a 5-17. Really big spray rigs use 5-19. Tip size matters.

Another important thing is to strain the paint. The paint store sells 5-gallon-size strainers. Put the strainer over a 5-gallon bucket. Pour the paint into the bucket. Lift the strainer up, and finally grab it with your hands and squeeze the paint out. Do this in the grass and then wash out the strainer for next time. Put a lid over the paint bucket so the paint stays wet and clean.

We used high pressure sprayers, and then wrapped a filter right over the intake... but the tips would still clog. We had guns with reversible tips ... rotate the tip around, fire the gun, and the clog was gone.

Maybe your tip is getting clogged real fast. When that happens, the gun simply doesn't shoot. The old guns, we had to take them apart every time the tip clogged. I don't know about the tip on your gun.

Your paint sprayer is probably not very high pressure, which means it would clog easily if stuff was in the paint ... and latex is thick and sticky and it gets crusty as it dries.

Suggestion: I would ask Sherwin Williams about the tip. See if they sell parts or tips at the Home Depot or Sherwin Williams.

Also you can clean the gun out with lacquer thinner. See if the lacquer thinner will pass through the gun. I would take it apart and clean everything with a toothbrush, and soak it in lacquer thinner. It might work, but the home-depot-home-owner-spray-equipment is generally not made for more than a few jobs. Especially the wagner-diaphragm-type guns.

Something else you might consider for a cedar-type picket fence. A roller. Sherwin Williams sells thick shaggy roller covers that hold a lot of paint. The little cheap roller covers can't paint a fence or anything else because they're too thin. We almost never sprayed a fence. We'd put masonite along the bottom and then just threw paint up with a roller [slap it on as the customers used to claim] >>> for cedar pickets, thin the paint with water (1 gallon water per 5 of paint) so it flows into the holes and gaps. Roll the fence, and then go back and touch up with a brush or the sprayer. A paint job on a fence always looks better the next day [unlike some things] so sometimes it's best to wait 1 day before doing the brush work.

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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Example: .517 (the one most people, including you, need)
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Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
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Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

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If you are using HVLC cup gun, you will have to select correct tip,
You will need to thin the latex 50-50 with water, and keep paint strained to keep out all clogging.
If the tip is not reversible, then expect disassemble each time clog happens.
And you will be continually re-filling the cup.
And then if the surface is rough, the spray won't flow into the holes.
You have a mess coming your way.

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Buy big hairy 1" roller cover from Sherwin Williams. Don't get the cheapo 1/4" thick roller cover because it doesn't hold any paint. The big roller holds a big volume of paint.

Now if fence is rough, like cedar, you need to thin the stain.
About 1.5 gallon water per 5 of stain ... and suddenly you have 6-1/2 gallons of stain which means you bought too many gallons of stain.
So don't overbuy the stain. And pick up 2 plastic bucket for mixing.
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Put roller and frame on a wood pole that you took off the push broom. Now roll that stain onto every surface the roller can touch. Think of it like picking up quarters. If it was money, could you get the roller on that spot >> the answer is yes. Don't try to smooth it out and make pretty. Throw the stain on any way the roller can turn. Customers used to call that 'slapping it on' and I used to say, 'that's how it works, lady.'

Use a piece of masonite at the bottom. If you get stain on anything, wash it off immediately and use a wire brush on concrete surface or towel on smooth surface.

Wait for a day, because stain looks 100% better next day. And then go back with a brush and hit the spots you couldn't get with the roller. It will be faster and cheaper and fewer headaches than trying to spray latex stain with a HVLP cup gun.

To clean the roller: Leave it on the roller frame and wood stick. Turn on water hose and get the roller spinning until it's clean. Do this away from everything you don't want stain on.

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make sure your compressor can handle 10.5 CFM @ 50psi
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