Question about Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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I hae a 3 prong outlet and was wondering how to get an accurate reading. when i test the red and white i get 120 and the black and white i get 120 but the red and black i get nothing. help

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  • Roper Master
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On the left, the 3 wire type, the 2 outer wires should read 240 volts the middle neutral should read 120 from it to each hot wire on either side.i hae a 3 prong outlet and was wondering how to - 3885ad4.jpgThe four wire dude has 240 between red and black, it has 120 between white and red and 120 between white and black. Now why are these wired like this? Why a neutral wire? Because the motor runs on 120 while the heating element runs on 240. So if you don't get a reading between the 2 hots you could have a bad breaker. 51df167.jpg

Posted on Oct 13, 2010

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  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Oct 13, 2010

    With such a break as seen above the dryer would run but it would have no heat or intermittent heat depending on how far gone that breaker is.

  • williamculey Oct 13, 2010

    Thanks, that helped. So i checked the fuse panel, the outlet and the connection terminal in the dryer and all is good. I have to dry the clothes twice to get them dry. What order and how should i check the components to make sure they are working?

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Oct 13, 2010

    Well you know the thermal fuse is ok because the dryer still runs. So what ya need to check first is for air restrictions that would cause the control to shut down prematurely. Dryer control tstats very rarely go out. If the lint chute is clear and the venting is fine and the power is there and it is heating you could have a problem with contact arcing inside timer. My mom's dryer is practically brand new plain Jane Kenmore and setting it on auto dry I usually have to reset it to more dry after I hear the buzzer go off to get that dude to dry right. And I know the vent is clear. I may have a breaker going out. Gonna wait till it gets worse to fix it though. She don't have that many clothes to do.

  • williamculey Oct 13, 2010

    where is the timer located? I took the back off and turn the dryer on. the heating element turned on and the blower works great. the lint and everything looks clear. It is just baffeling to me. thanks for your help

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3 Answers

Can i plug a 110 air conditioners into a 220 plug in


Hi Shawn:
A 110 air conditioner would only use 1/2 of the available 220, so , the answer is yes, with a great BIG CAUTION!!!!!
You have to know how to safely wire in the appropriate plug.
- 220 usually will have 4 wires: Red, Black, White, and Green.
You get 220 between the red and black, the White is available for 110 to drive a fan or whatever.
- 220 sometimes only has 3 wires: Red, Black, and green
Here you have 220 with no 110, like a baseboard heater.
- 110 has 3 wires: RED OR BLACK, White, and Green.
You get 110 between the Red or Black and the white.
The White is called Neutral.
Do not use the green wire as a neutral if there is no white.
The green wire is a ground and is for safety purposes.

PLEASE!!!! If this is not perfectly clear and within your ability, DO NOT TRY TO WIRE IT! Get someone who is trade certified to help you. Also, don't even think about messing with the wiring unless the circuit breaker is turned off..

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1 Answer

I have a 12 inch chraftsman table saw with 2 wires coming from motor. The wiring diagram inside the cap shows it to be wired for 240 how do I wire that thru a switch and to a three wire recepticle


Not quite sure what your question is - Are you trying to plug a 240 into a 110/120 outlet? Or are you trying to plug this into a 240 3 prong outlet?

Traditionally, table saws don't come with a power cord - you must supply one. Usually on the motor there is a metal plate that describes volts/amps/phase/hp etc. Get the Volts/Amps from this plate, then measure the approximate distance between your table saw and the 240 outlet. The gauge of the power cord depends upon the Volt/Amps and the length of the cord. There are many volts/amps vs length for wire gauge conversions on the net. I always get a bigger wire (smaller gauge) than what is recommended. Expect to pay $100 or more for the cord (don't be cheap here). If you have an under rated cord, you can start a fire, burn up your motor, melt plugs into outlets and have to replace the outlet (don't ask how I know).

I'm a little suspicious of the "white and black" wire from 240 - it's usually "white and red" with a "black" ground. 240 is made from two 120's - opposite sine wave. So black is usually the common ground, while the white and red are the two 120's. Volts between white-red=240, white-black=120, red-black=120. If you're absolutely sure that white-black=240, then you can just connect a ground wire to the motor case. Many home table saws can be wired for 240 or 120 - you need to make sure that you're hooking 240v to the correct wires. If you're uncertain at all, then don't do it.

I have wired 120 to a 240 motor by accident and the motor ran - it had no power and didn't spin at full RPM. You can damage a motor this way, so I wouldn't recommend it. I have never put 240 to a 120 motor - so I don't know what happens (guessing you could burn up the motor coils).

With all that being said, if you have 240 outlet with 3 wire receptacle, then just use a multi-meter to determine the 2 "hot" and the 1 ground. Volts from hot1-hot2=240, hot1-ground=120, hot2-ground=120. If you don't have a multi-meter, buy one (approx $12). Once you have it wired up, then try the motor by flipping the switch on then off again. If the motor didn't spin, then you did something wrong. If it hummed but didn't spin, you have some connections wrong inside of the motor. If it spins the wrong way, then your wiring inside of the motor is wrong (doesn't help to flip the wires on the outlet). If you blew a circuit breaker, then the wiring to the motor is wrong.

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1 Answer

I rewired the unit in its 3-prong orientation and have plugged it into our 20A outlet. In the current orientation, only the dryer works. However, if I switch the black and red wire, only the washer wo


if i understand correctly you have it connected to a 240 volt circuit protected by a 20amp breaker, then you should have it on a minimum of a 240 volt circuit protected by a 30 amp breaker ,then you should have 120volts from the red wire to the white neutral wire and 120 volts from the black wire to the white neutral wire,or 240 volts between the red and black wires, then the unit should operate correctly as the dryer needs 240 volts and the washer uses 120 volts to operate as this is how the unit is wired to operate

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I have a four prong clothes dryer plug that needs to go in a three prong outlet - 220v. Any ideas?


It's either you convert the 3-prong outlet to 4-prong or the 4-prong cord to 3-prong. But the latter is easier and more feasible. Unplug the dryer then disconnect the 4-prong cord from the dryer. Note that it has red, black, white, and green/yellow wires but sometimes the red and black wires are both replaced by same color wire, usually gray. The red and black wires are lines L1 and L2 reversibly, meaning they can switch places, while the white and green/yellow wires are the neutral line and ground, respectively.

Get yourself a 3-prong cord and note that it has red , black, and white wires but sometimes, like the 4-pronged one, the red and black wires are both replaced by same color wire, usually gray and can also switch places. All you have to do now is connect these 3 wires in the same manner they are connected as 4-prong cord to the terminal block. The wire strapped to the dryer cabinet and connected to the green/yellow wire of the 4-prong cord wire is now left hanging. The last step is to connect this hanging strap wire to the same terminal on the terminal block (center) where the white wire (neutral) is connected and it's done.

It can be observed that converting a 4-prong cord to 3-prong cord is merely joining the neutral line (white) and the ground (green/yellow) thereby reducing the number of prongs from 4 to 3. On the other hand, converting a 3-prong cord to 4-prong cord is merely splitting the neutral line and the ground thereby increasing the number of prongs from 3 to 4. The link below might enlighten you further on this matter.

Electric Dryer Prong Conversion

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I have a marathon 3hp motor wired for 220 on a campbell hausfield air compressor. It has a white, black, and green wire coming out of the motor. I am using a no. 12 wire with ground. how do i wire it up to...


Hi! sims146
The Green wire from the electric motor is ground. Check the compressor motor, make sure it is wired for 220-230 Volts. If it has a white wire it could be wired 120 Volts. There should be voltage and current ratings on the motor plate. I always double check these connections. At 230 Volts this motor should be 17 Amps full Load. A 25-30 amp fuses are required to protect this motor circuit. Otherwise up to a 42.5 Amp Inverse Time Delay Breaker could be used.
The welder circuit should have 230 Volts between the Red and Black wires. The white wire is Nutral / Ground. Hopefully this is a 30 to 40 Amp circuit. The Four prong air compressor outlet, White is Neutral, Black and Red 230 Volts, Gray should be ground. Please check with Voltmeter, as some times people swap colors.
InMrFixIt

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1 Answer

I have a CRER5700ASO dryer that has a 3 prong plug that needs to be hooked into a 4 prong outlet. How do I connect the 4 prong plug to the dryer? Thanks


Red to Red(left or right side)
Black to Black(left or right side)
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Frigidaire self cleaning stove mod FEF369cgsb ser vf94422321 was originally wired direct and it shows 4 wires. Now I want to use a plug and outlet, 3 prong. How do you connect the 3 prong plug? thank you...


Vivian
the original wiring probably had a red, white, black, and green wire. It is 240 volts. The red is hot, carrying one leg of 120 volts. The black is also hot, carrying 120 volts. The white is neutral, and the green is the ground.

I am against altering this, but you can wire the red and black each to a hot leg, and wire the white and green to the bottom ground. This then introduces a ground wire to your neutral bar in the circuit panel, which is not the best way to do it, but will work.

Best to get an electrician to wire a 4 wire cable to a four prong outlet, and then use a four wire pigtail with a 4 pronged plug.

Lots of people modify it, they ground the green wire to the stove, where the wire originates,and to the box with the outlet in it where it hooks onto the plug if it is metal. Then you have a part ground. And that is assuming you have a cable with wires sticking out to wire to a plug.

Boils down to your decision. If the above isn't the case, get a four pronged outlet and wire the red and black to the top two prongs, the white to the neutral, and the green to the metal box it sits in.

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Dryer is turning but no heat is coming out


If you had a 3 prong originaly you probably have only 3 wires to work with, either a red and black and white or a black and a black with a red stripe and a bare stranded wire. The black and red are ALWAYS the 2 hot wires 230 volt. The white or bare are the neutral / common wires. If you only have 3 you will need to get your equipment ground from a cold water line to the 4th prong.
Another option leave the 3 prong in the wall and install the old 3 prong pig tail on the new dryer then ground the frame of the dryer to the nearest cold water line. The water line must be metalic for this to work.
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1 Answer

I am trying tochange my


This is common issue. Due to some building codes the 3-prong configuration is no longer used in homes. The wiring is similar with one exception. The 4-wire plug uses an additional (WHITE) NEUTRAL wire.

Here's a brief explanation of how the plugs are configured:

Dryer 3 prong wire configuration:

RED - 120 VAC
GREEN - GROUND
BLACK - 120 VAC

Dryer 4 prong wire configuration:

RED - 120 VAC
GREEN - GROUND
BLACK - 120 VAC
WHITE - NEUTRAL

BOTH plugs provide the SAME source voltages to your appliance:

220 VAC - provided across the RED and BLACK leads are what drives your heating circuitry.
120 VAC - usually tapped of the BLACK wire is used to run the drive motor and timer on MOST dryers.

The wire terminal block in the back of the dryer should have a black, white, and red wire running to it from the dryer wiring harness. With the 4 prong plug, simply attach the BLACK, WHITE and RED wires at the terminal block ensuring that you match the RED and BLACK wires as they are configured and attach the WHITE wire at the remaining terminal lug. Make sure you screw them all down securely. Attach the remaining GREEN wire to chassis (dryer frame) ground. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

REPLACING DRYER 4 PRONG PLUG


This is common issue. Due to some building codes the 3-prong configuration is no longer used in homes. The wiring is similiar with one exception. The 4-wire plug uses an additonal (WHITE) NEUTRAL wire.

Here's a brief explanation of how the plugs are configured:

Dryer 3 prong wire configuration:

RED - 120 VAC
GREEN - GROUND
BLACK - 120 VAC

Dryer 4 prong wire configuration:

RED - 120 VAC
GREEN - GROUND
BLACK - 120 VAC
WHITE - NEUTRAL

BOTH plugs provide the SAME source voltages to your appliance:

220 VAC - provided across the RED and BLACK leads are what drives your heating circuitry.
120 VAC - usually tapped of the BLACK wire is used to run the drive motor and timer on MOST dryers.

The wire terminal block in the back of the dryer should have a black, white, and red wire running to it from the dryer wiring harness. With the 4 prong plug, simply attach the BLACK, WHITE and RED wires at the terminal block ensuring that you match the RED and BLACK wires as they are configured and attach the WHITE wire at the remaining terminal lug. Make sure you screw them all down securely. Attach the remaining GREEN wire to chassis (dryer frame) ground. I hope ths helps you.

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