Question about Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

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WHIRLPOOL ELECT OVEN MOD #RBS305PRB00 WILL NOT HEAT, LIGHT STAYS ON AND PANEL SAYS DOOR. THE THERMAL FUSE SEEMS TO BE OKAY PER MY VOM METER

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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nice, it'd help me a lot thank you

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

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the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Oven Control Panel Thermal Fuse

If the display is totally out it is likely the thermal fuse this is located where the wire connectors plug into the board it looks like a small resistor in a platic shrinkwrap type sleeve. test it with a continuity meter.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Double Oven RBD305PDB7 - Upper Oven Won't Heat

I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: oven won't heat

Unplug the power cord for thirty minutes, this should reset the oven.
If this still does not work do the following:
Press clean and then cancel. This will reset the appliance.

If the error does not clear , then during the self cleaning cycle, the high temperature has probably damaged the temperature sensor probe, and it must be replaced.

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

barkencoa
  • 3463 Answers

SOURCE: oven not heating

You need to replace the fan oven element.
access to it is by removing the rear panel in the oven, there you will see the element.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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Whirlpools are notorious for tripping the thermal fuse on the back of the oven but there is a thermal fuse to the control board also on most electronic control models. It is a good chance you will need to replace both fuses.

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Have you checked the heating element supply voltage with a VOM? And have you checked for a popped/burned fuse to the bake element?

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Hello,
Most ranges from that brand have a high limit thermostat behind the back panel, or sometimes under the burners,it should be closed if good. typically the wiring diagram is either inside of control panel or hidden under the storage drawer.if it has the high limit (also called thermal fuse) the diagram will show you the color wires to it.

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Oven not heating up after using self clean oven feature


OK. Not a professional, but I happen to have a lot of experience with this situation. For reference, I have a Whirlpool RBD305PDT11 Double-Oven with a "Self-Clean" feature.

Inevitably, my bride decided that she would "clean" the oven. She set the controls and let it go. At the end of this procedure, I noticed that the electronic control board no longer showed the time or any other lights. So, I checked it out and found that the oven was ENTIRELY non-functional. Virtually nothing would work.

Since this oven is hard-wired, I turned off the fuse and let it sit for few minutes (these things are just computers, so I thought that I would "reboot" the whole thing). This did nothing.

Then, with the help of the internet (thank you, "Fixya"), I found out that this model of Whirlpool oven (and many others of different brand names) seems to have this sort of problem all the time.

It turns out that the physical act of using the "Self-Clean" feature, with its very high heat, blows a few "Thermal Fuses" that are one-use only and cannot be reset. They must be replaced.

First, be sure to turn off the power to the oven BEFORE doing anything. I did this and then took the oven out of the wall enclosure so I could get to the back of the unit. For sake of brevity, I will not go over the procedure to take the oven out of the wall, but those instructions can be found on the internet. Several metal screws hold the sheet metal covering on the top and bottom. Note: This has happened to me twice now (my bride used the "Self Clean" feature without my knowledge) and I have found that the lower Thermal Fuse has NOT blown either time, but the top one has blown both times.

On this unit, the "Oven Shutdown Thermal Fuse" (part number 4451442 costing about $40) is attached with two screws and is located on the upper left section (picture attached below). It is very easy to take the two wire leads off and remove the two screws holding it in place. You can then check this item with a Multimeter to see if the fuse is working. I won't go over the Multimeter instructions, but, you are looking for "Continuity". If you have continuity (electricity will flow), the fuse is good. If you do not have continuity, the fuse is bad.

The first time that this happened (about 5 years ago), the control panel still had lights on and was issuing "error codes" specific to this brand of oven (I don't remember the codes...F1 or something) and the only problem was the fuse as discussed above.

However, the second time that this happened, as I mentioned earlier, the control panel was blank also. So, I had to look for the "Control Panel Thermal Fuse" also. This fuse can be accessed from the FRONT and is behind the control panel. In this unit, that part number is 4451042 and costs about $20. This item is sheathed in clear plastic with a "bullet-looking" thing inside of the plastic. It is very easy to pull this fuse out and check it for continuity to see if it is in working order. Continuity (electricity can flow from one side to the other), and the fuse is good. No continuity, and the fuse is bad. Again, you can check the continuity with a Multimeter. In the second instance of this happening, this fuse was bad also (that is why the control panel had no lights or error codes or anything).

Once I replaced these fuses, the control panel came back, the oven would then respond and worked just fine. If I was to guess, I would say that the cabinet that the oven is installed into is too tight of a space and the temperature just gets way too hot and the fuses blow. This is just a thought, but maybe a fan set to blow at the unit when attempting the cleaning process would help keep the unit somewhat cooler on the outside. But then, at $60 to fix and all of the hassle involved, I am NOT willing try this just to see if it helps!

Just to get in a rant....How a company can sell a unit with a feature of "Self Cleaning" that, when used exactly per the instructions, will render the unit completely useless is WAY beyond me. oven-not-heating-up-after-using-self-m2kgk0sj4irmtvrbwm3x5vdv-1-1.jpg oven-not-heating-up-after-using-self-m2kgk0sj4irmtvrbwm3x5vdv-1-3.jpg

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1 Answer

"Door Lock" LED flashing


that means you have door or lock problem may be the door latch failed after the oven self-cleaned,the heat might have blown a thermal overload fuse.first unplug the range and check the wires and connectors between the control and the door switch for damage. if they are okay , pull the range out and remove the back panel. check for the small gear motor that controls the latch and rotate it to unlock the door. . In the open back panel, look to your 10 o'clock position for a round part about the size of a quarter fastened with two screws. You can find out if this is your problem by unscrewing the fuse and taking the wires out, then joining the two wires together. Plug in the oven and see if the led disappears and the door lock works again. If it works, that fuse was your problem. if not then its the door hinge but be careful when doing this,to avoid more damage to the oven

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1 Answer

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If the display is totally out it is likely the thermal fuse this is located where the wire connectors plug into the board it looks like a small resistor in a platic shrinkwrap type sleeve. test it with a continuity meter.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

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