Question about Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer

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Stopping heating the belt is not broke just blowing cold air were is the heating elements location on that dryer in front panel or back and what do thermostats look like,

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  • Roper Master
  • 7,482 Answers

Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Oct 13, 2010

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1 Answer

Dyer will not heat


Sounds like an open heating element issue. If you have two sensors for internal temps, the chances of both going bad at same time are remote.
Locate the element wiring and disconnect from circuit and do a simple continuity test. Chances are that it is burnt out or open.

Jan 28, 2014 | LG DLE7177 Dryer

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Elite and Duet Dryer Heating Element Replacement


This advice explains how to replace the heating element on Whirlpool Duet, Kenmore Elite and Maytag Epic dryers.

1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is turned off.

2. Open the door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You will not be able to remove the air blower cover with the lint screen in place.

3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: Propping the front feet of the dryer up can provide you better access to the screws (a 2x4 works well for this).

4. Disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (usually yellow wires with a white plug to the right of the blower assembly) and any ground wires that may be connected to the front panel.

5. Remove the air blower cover by locating and removing the mounting screws. NOTE: This is a good time to clean the blower fan housing, squirrel cage motor and dryer interior cabinet.

6. Remove the top panel of the dryer by locating and removing the screws holding the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then come off.

7. Locate the two screws that hold the operator console in place. There should be one on each side under the top panel. Remove the screws and carefully lift the panel straight up. NOTE: You do not need to disconnect the ribbon cables. Carefully lay the console across the top of the dryer out of the way.

8. Disconnect the door switch connector plug and remove the dryer front panel by locating the four screws that hold it in place. Loosen the two screws along the bottom of the panel and leave in place. Remove the top two screws and lift up and turn the whole front panel slightly counter-clockwise to release the drum supports from the dryer drum. NOTE: Make sure the dryer door is closed when removing the front panel to avoid damaging the door hinges.

9. Remove the dryer drum. Reach in behind the air blower with both hands and pull the idler pulley to the right with your right hand to release the tension and remove the dryer belt from the drive motor. With the belt still looped around the drum, you can use it like a handle to lift the entire drum up and out of the dryer.

10. With the drum removed, the heating components can easily be accessed. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat is located on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located at the back of the dryer, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.


11. The entire heating assembly is removed by disconnecting all the components leads, followed by loosening the heater box mounting screw. With everything disconnected, the entire box and components will come free and lift out of the dryer. NOTE: Make sure you properly label all wiring to ensure they are reinstalled correctly.

12. There are a couple of mounting screws on the side of the heater box that holds the heating element in place. With the screws removed, the heating element will slide out of the box. NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the component disconnected from the circuit to ensure accuracy. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat will read something close to 0 ohms if GOOD. The Heating Element should read 9 to 13 ohms.

13. Insert new heating element into the heater box and align the screw holes. Replace any other defective components and reinstall heater box.

14. Reinstall dryer drum ensuring the back rim of the drum rests on the rear dryer drum supports. Make sure the belt is looped on to the drum with the ribbed side towards the drum.

15. Reinstall the dryer belt by releasing the belt tension pulley as listed above, then, with your left hand loop the belt over the drive motor pulley. Release the idler pulley making sure the belt rests on the drive motor pulley. You should feel the belt tighten with tension. If you need further clarification on how to properly route the dryer belt you can go to repairclinic.com and click on the "Repair Help" link at the top of the page. On the following page, locate the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section. Refer to diagram K.

16. Reinstall the front panel by turning it slightly counter-clockwise and aligning the front drum supports under the front of the drum. Once the supports are under the drum, turn the front panel clockwise and lift up, placing it on the bottom two screws. Reinstall and tighten the top two screws.

17. Reinstall the door switch connector plug and reinstall the operator console. Use caution not to put too much stress on the ribbon cables.

18. Reinstall dryer top panel.

19. Reinstall air blower cover and reconnect the auto dry sensor and ground wire.

20. Reinstall toe panel by inserting the top portion first and pushing up. Push lower portion of the panel in place and reinstall screws.

I know this may seem like a lot, but its actually fairly simple if you follow the steps provided. Read through everything before attempting any repairs. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

on Dec 20, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Help with my whirlpool dryer


First you have to determine whether you element is in the front or the back of the machine this is done easiest by looking at the front of the machine and seeingif its one complete piece or two. If its one, the element is in the back, if two its in the front. We'll start if its in the back first. Tools you'll need is: 1/4 nut driver or drill with 1/4 adapter and a multimeter with ability to check continuity. With the machine unplugged, remove the back cover of the dryer. Once done, the heating element will be located on the right hand side with two fuses on the housing of the element. Test the element and each fuse seperatly by removing the wires and checking for continuity on each component. All parts should show continuity, so if one doesn't its bad and needs to be replaced. Now if the element is the front everything is the same with the exception of you have to remove the lower portion, usually held on by 3-4 screws located underneath.

Jun 01, 2012 | Estate Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer blows cold air. I replaced heat element still no luck? model 96263800


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

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1 Answer

T|he heating element won't stop heating


Hi, The element has broke and shorted out against the metal on the dryer. You will need to replace the element. If this is a rear access panel dryer, here is how to get to the ele UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the element on the right hand side. Plug the dryer back in and test to see if there is 240V going to the element posts. If there is voltage, but no heat, change the element. If it does not, you need to test the thermostats for continuity. If any of the thermostats are open, replace it. I hope this helps you.
Please let me know if this help or if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

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WHERE DO I FIND THE HEATING ELEMENT ON A ESTATE DRYER


i have a estate dryer it blows hot air and drum turns but does not dry the clothes so it takes 3-4 rounds to dry the clothes what cold be the promblem

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The dryer only blow out cold air.


When I turn the dryer on, only cold air blows out. There's no heat. I cleaned out the vents? What do you think is my problem> Thank you very much. K

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Blowing cold air


There is not a reset button on an electric dryer that I know of. If a dryer is blowing air at all, that tells me that the blower assembly and drum motor are working. If you have not heat it is generally caused one of the following:

1. Bad thermal cut-out - located near the heating element housing. Should read a SHORT (0 ohms on an ohm meter) if good. If bad, it is generally a good idea to replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted right next the TCO in most cases) because the TCO is designed to protect the thermostat and heating element. If the TCO fails, it is likely that the thermostat could also be damaged.

2. Hi-Limit Thermostat failure - located near the heating element housing. The thermostat opens when the internal heat reaches about 157 degrees (on most dryers). This helps regulate the dryer temperature and helps protect the heating element. If it reads a constant OPEN (infinity reading on an ohm meter), replace it along with the TCO (as mentioned above).

3. Bad Heating Element - located under the drum on some dryer models and in the rear on others. The element should read about 9-11 ohms if good. If they go bad, the element will generally burns itself OPEN.

I will need you model number (located near the dryer door opening) in order to give you better advice on how to access the inside of the dryer. Post back with comments and let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

PS I hope I didn't insult your intelligence, but some people are little more saavy than others, so I try to explain things in the simplest of terms.

Jan 14, 2008 | Dryers

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