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Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
the alarm on virtuoso/ westinghouses are generally a high temp alarm
meanning the freezer has not reached its set point temp . it could be caused by many problems . i would suggest you get a tech to diagnose it properly .
Try adding refrigerant or freon. The Alarm just warns you that it's not cooling or freezing and your food is thawing out. Check the fan if you hear the fan running it should be the coolant needs to be put in it. Or it could possibly be both.
This is a bad design flaw, the fridhe is cooled by fan forced air from the freazer. Two ducts vent into and out of the fridge fron the freezer and ice can block them up (which you can find if you take off all the plastic at the top and back of the fridge). Hence, when they block up, the frindge does not cool, hence the thermostat tells the fridge to keep running which makes the freezer colder and colder, making the blockage worse.
You need to not only fully defrost the freezer (which can be done quicker by removing the plastic panel in the back of the freezer and using a hairdryer) BUT also fully dry the fridge before turning it back on. To stop it happening again, avoid puting unvovered liquids or hot items in the fridge. Also avoid leaving the fridge and freezer doors open for long especially in humid conditions. As I said, it's a bad design.
I have the same fridge (stainless steel virtuoso) and when the fridge section stops cooling you have to turn power off. Then remove everything from the freezer including the shelf. Next get a pointy object and remove the two plastic screw covers located on the back inside plastic freezer panel, Next remove the two phillips head screws securing the panel in place. Next (and this is a little tricky) get two solid forks and lever the back interior panel off, thereby exposing the cooling system of the fridge. Next get a hairdryer and completely defrost this item, and then reassemble. Switch power back on and your fridge will be fixed, and cooling like a champion! plus you have saved hundreds by not paying ripoff "technicians" I have to do this every six or seven weeks because of the high humidity here in Darwin, the freezer is "frost free" but the cooling system still ices up, and this is what blocks airflow and stops the fridge cooling.