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1-For a metal lever handle it will have a allen head screw at the base of the lever to remove with a 1/8" allen wrench. If you can not see screw it may have a cap covering it to remove.
2-To remove plastic acrylic caps remove plastic cap to acess screw to remove handle.
Once handle is off remember the location of the dial to adjust it counter clockwise to increase hot water flow. Slide indicator dial back on stem and reposition about a 1/4" turn counter clockwise and recheck for change in temperature.
If you need any more help refer to the link provided for a digram of faucet. Go to parts down load and view faucet parts view. I hope this will be helpful in solving your issue.
As long as they are adjustable it's not too bad. Remember to change pushrods one at a time. First you have to pull the upper chrome covers off. These have a little (kind of) handle. They are halfed, but they look one piece. Pull down & out. 1: Once chrome covers are off, turn motor slightly until the valve your working on is closed & lifter is on lowest part of base circle on cam at BTC. in other words, while turning motor slightly in BOTH directions, lifter should be all the way down, and stay down. this assures that your not on or near the up ramp of the cam lobe. 2: Then you can remove pushrod by loosening lash adjustment (on bottom) until pushrod comes out. 3: Put new pushrod through partial chrome tube exactly as removed from old pushrod. 4: Set valve lash or pre-load, and then, one at a time, repeat procedure from step 1.
there is plastic snaps that attatch the panel to the door all the way around the panel which you can buy a tool to remove the panel without breaking the snaps,the door handle may have a cable hooked to it that releases the latch and it might be stretched causing the handle to pull hard
There are two adjustments. First find the screw on the right side that allows loosening of rear baseplate. Once loose, another screw jacks the base up or down. They are both hex heads on mine.
Turn jack screw until a straight edge along the base just clears the cutter. Spin the cutter once to make sure both edges are the same depth and that both clear the straight edge.
For the front shoe, turn adjustment handle to zero. Remove the adjustment handle from the front shoe and find two vertical slots at the front. Two screws (hex heads) allow loosening of shoe. Once loose, the shoe can be adjusted by sliding up or down. With a straight edge held along the rear base and touching the front base, align the front shoe so straight edge barely clears blade and tighten screws. The front and back base should line up. Replace adjustment lever and recheck zero cut clearance as well as maximum depth. Readjust as necessary. If zero clearance is not an issue, the bases can be set to allow deeper cuts than factory specified. It's a powerful planer so if you're cutting softer woods, a deeper cut might be desired.