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Simpson enduro 702. I want to replace the bearing and seal that holds the main shaft to the agitator. Have removed the clamp, released the shaft, What next? do I remove the large circular white base?

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  • bevitt Oct 15, 2010

    Thanks for your reply. I am familiar with small machinery but not washing machines. I

    1. removed the agitator,

    2. undid the two hex head bolts from the cast clamp which allowed the bowl to be disengaged from the shaft.

    3. The bearing that is now visable is at the base of the spline that holds the agitator. This bearing is leaking out grease/oil.

    The conical shaped disc/base (260mm diameter) is part of the clamping mechanism which is visable when the agitator is removed and it is inside the bowl

    Hope this explains it?? Geoff

  • bevitt Oct 15, 2010

    Thanks again for your information. I look forward to your reply. Geoff Bevitt

  • bevitt Oct 15, 2010

    Sorry, I didn't confirm that the bearing you described is the RIGHT ONE :-) Geoff Bevitt

  • bevitt Oct 23, 2010

    Hi Luisa. Did you find out any more re the replacement process of the bearing??

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Hi Bevitt just read your posting.Now are you referring to the main seal of the tank and the bearings for the main shaft?Also where is this 'large circular white base' located,is it under the machine or in the tub?Sorry to ask you this question but I am having trouble picturing what you are describing.Please reply with additional information and I am sure I can help you rectify the problem.Looking forward to your reply.

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

  • luisa_sgro Oct 15, 2010

    Hi Geoff just read your last posting.The round disk is called a TUB CASTING and the bowl is attached to this.It is clamped around the main shaft and the bearing and seal you want to change is inside this main shaft.Is this correct?I think to change this shaft seal and bearing you might have to pull the complete gearbox out and pull the agitator shaft from the bottom of the gearbox.In the morning I will ring my friend who thankfully reconditions these gearboxes for a living.Bear with me and I will get detailed instructions to you in the morning.That is about 10 hours from now.Please reply if you receive this posting and you are willing to wait till tomorrow.Looking forward to your reply.

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The bearings are pre-loaded with grease but a smear of lithium grease can be used to ease fitting into the spider.The howling could be possibly because of the drum bearings.If your machine is making a rumbling noise as the drum turns then you most likely have an issue with the drum bearings. It's possible that normal use can allow water to get to the bearings. Remove the washing machine belt and manually turn the drum. If you hear a rumble as you turn the drum then problem is the ball bearings. Remove and replace them with new ones.Not knowing if your Simpson is a direct drive through a multi -speed gear box or another method, that makes it hard to give you a definitive answer. In my experience with earlier Simpson Washing machines the agitator should lift off the Splined shaft in the bowl by gripping the bottom of the agitator on the bottom edge using both hands at 180o between them, basically one opposite the other and trying to lift the agitator off vertically straight up until it clears the splined shaft and above the top lip of the bowl at which time you can remove it from the bowl. Be careful it doesn't give way suddenly as you maybe leaning over the bowl and with the force you sometimes have to exert it might come up and strike you hard around your facial region. If the agitator either has never been lifted off or a long period of time since it was then you may have to "wiggle" the agitator whilst attempting to lift the thing of the drive shaft. Once you have removed the agitator clean and re grease the splined drive shaft with suitable grease, not too much only a smear as too much will melt and leach into the bowl and hence you'll have greasy marks on the washing. Clean out the female splined section of the agitator and again a thin film of grease should be rubbed on the female splines. Replace the agitator on the shaft and make sure it's fully the length of the shaft as it will ride up and attempt to come of the drive shaft whilst the machine is operating if it's not seated correctly. If you think there are / is foreign objects beneath the agitator that seldom happens but sometimes it can with small articles. The problem of noisy agitators can be caused by worn bearings in the drive gear box which in turn allows the agitator to move sideways a bit and that then can grind on the bottom of the bowl under the agitator or even allow a small piece of cloth to get under the agitator etc. I doubt the unit would be driven by a belt directly connected to another pulley on the agitator but only a sub bowl inspection can prove that. I've never come across a Simpson that doesn't have a 2 speed direct drive gear box for the agitator and the spin dryer.

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First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the Whirlpool Parts list for these washers:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It sounds as if the Gearcase Cover Seal may be worn and is allowing transmission oil to work it's way up the main agitator shaft.

I'd pull the motor and transmission to check for leaking and probably check all of the seals on the gearcase and drive tube.

(IT SOUNDS LIKE A REAL PAIN BUT ISN'T.) THE PARTS TO REPAIR ANY SEALS ARE INEXPENSIVE.:

For example, the above part number 3349985 is $9.09 at Sears and is a basic Whirlpool part.

See the following for how to release the console and cabinet and how to pull the pump, motor, gearcase and drive tube.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=142

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Check all the seals and replace as necessary.

Also see the following Whirlpool document on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

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1 Answer

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4. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the agitator shaft. (Some models have a pair of hex nuts here; if so, remove those.)
5. Pry the gear up and off the shaft. Remove the square key from the shaft keyway at the same time.
6. Tap gently on the top of the agitator shaft to drive it out from the bearings and grease seal.
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----------------------------
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2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
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7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
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