RINSE ONLY light is blinking and no functions of the dishwasher work. Turned off power for 2 hours, no change. Removed ribbon cable from between keypad and contrioller (?) for 30 minutes, rplaced and restored power and was able to start the washer through the wash cycle. Stopped when starting the rinse cycle and RINSE ONLY light blinking again.
Kind of a pain to rinsh dishes by hand! Any solution?
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Re: RINSE ONLY LIGHT BLINKING Kitchenaid KUDM01TJBS0
To get the best cleaning results, the water entering your dishwasher needs to be hot enough. Try running the hot water in your kitchen sink for about 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher, to pre-heat it. Also, if your dishwasher lets you select a higher wash or rinse temperature, try that to see if it helps.
To check the temperature of the hot water that comes from your kitchen faucet use a waterproof thermometer. If the water isn't 120 degrees Fahrenheit, your dishwasher may have trouble getting your dishes clean. You could increase the temperature of the hot water to the whole house--and therefore the dishwasher--by adjusting the hot water heater thermostat.
Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Re: RINSE ONLY LIGHT BLINKING Kitchenaid KUDM01TJBS0
Open the assembly unit and check out for the loose wire connections. the wire connecting the RINSE ONLY light might have become direct. and the wire connecting the other controls are malfunctioning.... there seems to be a problem with the sensor also... just check it once
here s the user manual for ur dish washer...just create an account here to get the manual http://www.kitchenmanuals.com/manuals/mfg/kitchenaid/kudm01tj_1.html
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OK I am not an expert but I have spent the last two weeks learning about
and fixing my dishwasher! Hopefully I can save you a headache. Try the
* Flip the switch off and on in your breaker/circuit box for 10-15 minutes. May reset your washer. *
If that doesn't work, try running diagnostic/reset cycles by pressing
heated dry -normal- heated dry or heated dry-sanitize-heated dry in
sequence. If the cycles run fine, you will rule out a power, latch,
motor/drying issue. It also may (hopefully) reset your system. * If
normal function still does not resume after that, make sure your power (from the
breaker box) is turned off and unscrew (with a star-shaped screwdriver
bit - check your car emergency kit or toolbox, you may find you have it)
and open the front button control panel and check all connections. Try
carefully unplugging and replugging wires and look for any
corrosion/moisture on the circuit board. * If everything looks good but that does not work,
test the circuit board by unplugging the green ribbon cable from the
control panel, reassembling with the ribbon cable unplugged, flipping
your circuit back on and then closing the dishwasher door. If the drain
motor runs, it will show you that there is still some function with the
circuit board. Although it doesn't rule out the circuit board
completely, it will point to a most likely control (button) panel issue
and try replacing that. If the drain test does NOT run, it may be the
circuit board that needs to be replaced.
There may be some additional instructions specific to your model hidden in an envelope behind the kickplate of your washer.
On my unit, I had the same problem (child lock LED on, or flashing.The cancel process of pushing anything was not possible, as a bad/stuck switch prevented any input from the control panel buttons.
The underlying cause of the problem turned out to be a faulty switch associated with the "Light China" button. I determined this by removing the control panel from the door and using a digital multimeter with OHMS and DIODE settings, was able to check each individual push-button switch using the following table to check the 12 switches (applies to the KUDC25CHSS1 model).
There are 2 ribbon cables, it is the larger of the two cables you need to check. Pin 1 is noted on the ribbon. You can use 2 normal sized paper clips to insert into the ribbon cable and make your connections. (My Ohm meter has aligator clips on its leads which helps a lot...maybe another set of hands would help if you don't have these kind of leads).
-Using OHMS: the reading should be infinite (open circuit, so no reading/no connection inside the switch) when not pushing the button, otherwise you will receive a reading when you push the switch.
-Using DIODE/beep: Ensure polarity is followed in the table below. When connected, pushing the associated button will cause a beep to occur, otherwise there will be no beep and no reading.
+Positive Lead -Negative lead Antibacterial Sw 13 3 Rinse Only Sw 13 2 Light China Sw 11 2 Normal Switch 13 4 Delay Switch 11 4 Energy Save Dry 13 5 Cancel 12 5 Start 11 5 Soak & Scrub 12 6 Super Scrub 11 6 Short Wash 12 4 Sani Rinse 11 3
All my switches checked out OK, except for the "Light China" switch. On the OHMS settings I was never able to measure an open circuit for that switch, which means the switch was always closed. or connected.
I noticed that "Light China" was pin 2 and "Rinse only" also used pin 2, which happen to be cycles I never use. With power turned off, I carefully removed some of the plastic surround of the matching connector on the Control Board right next to it's associated Pin 2 all the way to the bottom. Then I carefully bent over pin 2 as close to the connector base as possible. Making sure all the remaining pins were straight, I plugged on the control panel ribbon cables and all is well again.
Prior to trying this I was resolved that I needed to buy a new dishwasher because I wasn't going to pay over $350 for a new control panel. Instead, I eliminated 2 unused cycles at no cost, and maybe I can get some more use out of this dishwasher.
Try pressing heated dry, normal, heated dry, normal keys within 6 seconds. All lights should come on and the machine should enter diagnostic mode. If this does not work remove the 2 screws that hold the toe panel on at the bottom front of the dishwasher, attached inside you will find a tech sheet that tells you how to enter the diagnostic mode. Once you get it in diagnostic mode let it do it's thing, will take about 20 minutes total. At the end the control will be reset. If the fault comes back then troubleshoot according to the tech sheet, or call for service.
I took the door apart, removed the control board, which I had expected to replace. I disconnected the ribbon cable that connects the control panel to control board cleaned the connections and reassembled everything. The dishwasher has been working since.
about the only thing to try would be to remove the inner door panel to get to the control bd then you will see a mylar ribbon looks like a fat piece of scotch tape pull up on the plastic connector that holds it in and pull the ribbon out then get a clean pencil eraser and gently clean the ribbon and put it back in dont forget to push the locking tab back down then try it again and let me know
I had the same flashing light problem first the normal wash flashing light then the others. I tried shuting of the breakers but nothing. I tried resetting the panel by pushing normal wash and heated dry simultaneously and nothing. So I took the six screws holding the front panel out and unplugged the ribbon type wires and plug and unplugged it several times to help make a better contact and I was able to get it to work right away. This may not work for all but I worked for me. It is very easy to do and it's worth a try if you're having the same problem. It took me less then 10 minutes.