I believe the term is Frozen? i used this speaker for 7 years no
problems than one day is seized on my.. do you guys know if the whole
cone needs to be replace or just the dvc ? if so where do i go to get
my parts i wanna fix it myself! first time speaker repairer here!
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So essentially it is a video monitor that never had any audio originating within it in the first place (like many of us have). What do WE do? We have audio systems and we run the audio from our various video sources directly to the audio-specialized electronics where it can be passed on to presumably superior speakers.
As far as I know, any equalizer will work. There is a guy on here that might know more about them, but I never had the Bose equalizer and I have Bose speakers for 35 years. The guy at the electronic store back then sold us a little equalizer at first, we graduated from that a long time ago, and now on the 3rd or 4th one. No problem, works great, sounds better than ever. Hope this helps.
The fault may be the bass driver itself or the Low Frequency power amp built into the speaker box. hard to determine which it is because it is intermittent. There are a couple of things to try. when the fault occurs.
just lightly touch the cone on the bass driver see what happens. If it fires up again, it has failed soldering on the spider wire connections from the terminals to the cone. This can be repaired by a decent sound guy the does speakers, or a specialist near you that can be found easily enough. A new replacement driver is also an immediate option if you don't mind spending the bucks.
if the above didn't work, to prove to yourself where the problem may lay, you could swap the bass drivers from one box to the other and see if the fault follows the driver, or remains with the speaker box. If the electronics are faulty, unless you have some decent experience with soldering and fault finding, you may be best to get it to a repair guy,
If you cant get it sorted, please provide me with your location(not address:)) and I will be able to locate a decent guy that knows what he is doing for you. Cheers
I think I had a similar problem. My speakers were brand new and after a while I lost my front left and rear left speaker. I'm not sure about you guys but after fiddling around with the settings it worked after I changed the "S/PDIFoutput sample rate" from 48 to 96 khz. I have no clue what I did, but it worked for me. I am running logitech something or rather speakers with VIA HD audio deck drivers
Hello, Suse! One of my closest friends had the IDENTICAL system, and had to replace TWO transmitters before getting one that finally worked long-term. (A total of three - the original, plus the two replacements.)
Before making the same assumption, however, there are two simple things to check:
1) Inspect the connection between your receiver and the WSP transmitter to make sure everything is secure.
2) IF you're using the speakers with batteries, try an AC adapter instead. Batteries - even brand new ones - aren't ideal for every application. There is NO QUESTION that the WSP system - at least, the one my friend uses - performs better when connected to AC power than it does when using batteries.