Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: we have a westinghouse freestyle
You will have to remove the freezer shelves and Icemaker then you should see the screws which hold the back panel in place. Remove these screws and you should be able to remove the back panel.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
I am going to assume you are in the UK. the voltage is higher than most household refrigerators here in the USA. Disconnect power to refrigerator and check continuity on two of the three terminals of the compressor at a time until you measure the resistance in the windings all the way around. The terminals should be marked R, S and C. (Run, Start and Common) you should get a reading with your multimeter all the way around. When you have done this and have the readings I want you to touch one end of your multimeter to the metal pipes or any clean metal outside the compressor and the other to one of the three terminals one at a time like you tested before. With your multimeter set up the same, see if you get a reading from metal housing to the three pins, or terminals c, r and s. You should get no reading. If you do, the compressor is a burn out and on the first test if you don't get a reading on the two at a time test between two post that is considered to be open or broken windings. The compressor does have an internal overload that may be open also. But if cool at time of test, and it shows up the compressor in bad. Let me know what you find...Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
Open the fridge door, locate the dial which moderates the temperature located on the 'ceiling' of the fridge. Remove the light cover, remove the globe. Unscrew the two screws which hold the dial housing to the ceiling of the fridge, let this housing hang from the ceiling in the wires. This will expose a red funnel shaped tray, gently lift the tray and pull it out, you will most likely find the tray drain is blocked with gunk, clean and reinstall. Assembly is reverse of removal.
Posted on Jan 08, 2011
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