Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check the water valve on the back of the ref. it sends water to the ice maker and water in the door one can work and the other one not
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
I had the same issue. It was the relay overload which essentially provides the extra boost to get the compressor going. The switch tries for about 10 seconds before giving up and then retries 3 - 4 minutes later. In the early stages of failure, eventually it will work and the compressor will kick on. But eventually the switch will fail and will just cycle through the 10 second attempt every 3 to 4 minutes. The part is about $35 - part number 67005560.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 RM 2852, the refrigerator (lower section) will not work its warm inside, but the freezer (upper section) works fine, it will freeze water bottle to hard ice. All fuses are good. Please help!!
cooling unit is bad my friend there is a temporary fix but in my opinion not worth your time take the unit out and flip the refer upside down this sometimes dislodges the blockage in the cooling unit all a rv fridge is is amonia and salt if not used all the time the salt crystalizes in the orfice and blocks the unit a rebult cooling unit 550 about and labor 4 hours at your dealers rate a new fridge about 1500 installed
my shop 360 for labor 550 about for unit 910
I ALLWAYS RECOMEND REPLACING THE FRIDE COMPLETLTY
you get all new electronics and a new box
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
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