Question about Kenmore 4678 Electric Range

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I have a kenmore 629.4677969 electric range. I have had numerous issues with fault codes F3, F5 and F7. Any solutions?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: BEEPING OVEN

The F1 and constant beeping is an error code indicating that your electronic control board (clock/timer) is defective. The fault cannot be reset and the control board must be replaced. This can be an expensive repair if your range is no longer covered by a warranty or service plan. The cost to buy a new control board can be in the neighborhood of about $200. Sorry...but I do hope this helps you.

Posted on May 12, 2007

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Electric oven 91141065791

Failure
Code
Condition Check/Repair F2 Oven temperature above specifications 8-pin connector oven temperature sensor to the Electronic Range Control (ERC) F3 Open oven temperature sensor Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature sensor if necessary F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature sensor if necessary F5 Pushbutton stuck Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 Computer logic interrupted (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 Computer logic interrupted (lock motor) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F8 Computer logic interrupted Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)

Posted on Oct 23, 2007

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: frigidiare electric range time bake and self cleaning

Usually f3 means a faulty oven temp. sensor. If you give me the complete model # from the sticker on the oven I can tell you for sure.

Posted on Nov 06, 2007

  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: error F5 on a kenmore electric range Model 911-469-8812

f-5 stands for faulty oven control called the EOC youll have to replace the control to fix problem

Posted on Nov 21, 2007

SOURCE: Error code F3 on Kenmore 911.4658815 electric range

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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1 Answer

Maytag MER5730ACW Stove.F3 fault code.


hello there
Please go thru this list of the fault codes for this appliance it will tell lyou what to do for the fault or what part needs to be replaced
MAYTAG FAULT CODES

Maytag Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F1 Defective touch pad or clock (ERC) Replace touch pad or clock (ERC). Touch pad is a more common problem. Refer to F1 test at the top of this page for more information. F2 Oven temperature too hot Replace relay board, if present, or oven temperature sensor (RTD). Check sensor harness. F3
or
F4 Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F5 Watchdog and hardware conflict Replace clock (ERC). F7 Function key shorted or stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F8 Analog / Digital problem Replace clock (ERC). F9 Door latch Check door latch components. Find Parts clear.gif

Jan 13, 2010 | Maytag MER5730 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

The oven isn't working and it says FO in red letters


GE / Hotpoint / RCA
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590 with unlocked door High resistance in Sensor, likely a bad sensor
F3 Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F7-A Function pad button stuck Clean and unstick
F7-B Bad Clock Replace Clock
F8 Electrical component failure Replace ERC
F9 Program with door circuit Check wiring

Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC


Maytag / MAYCOR / Magic Chef / Jennair / Admiral
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock


Amana / Caloric
Oven Fault Codes
Type with display - glass link ERC
Display Condition Remedy
F0 No Safety Signal Replace adapter board
F1 No Safety Signal Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F7 Shorted Touch Panel Replace Glass Panel
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch
FF Lock Error Check switch and motor
ERC III - Relay board with separate board/push buttons
F0 Shorted Push Pad Replace Push Pad
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace touch pad
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch


The following diagnostic chart Does not apply to Whirlpool 'Y' line products. If the model number contains a Y near the end of the number, DO NOT use this chart.
Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Roper
Oven Fault Codes
Ovens with 4 digit displays
Display Condition Remedy
F0-E0 Analog to Digital failure Disconnect panel for 30 seconds. if error re-appears then replace control
F1-E1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2-E0 Shorted Keypad Replace Keypad
F3-E0 Sensor or Sensor Fuse Open Replace Sensor or Fuse
F3-E1 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F3-E2 Oven over heat Replace Sensor
F3-E3 Cleaning Temp over heat Replace Sensor
F5-E0 Door Error Check Door
F5-E1 Door Latch Check Latch
F5-E2 Door Switch Check Switch
Ovens with 2 Digit Displays
F0 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Problem with time keeping circuit Reset Time or cooking operation and check for proper ground
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace ERC
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch and latch circuit

Dec 18, 2009 | Ovens

2 Answers

Controlpanel flashes f 3


You have a faulty keypad. You could probably special order this part from a local appliance parts supply store for 50-60$ or purchase a new microwave.

Oct 22, 2009 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

F7 error code- what does this mean?


Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC

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1 Answer

Magic Chef Gas Range, model CGR3740ADW


magic chef fault codes

F1 1. Watchdog on board
2. Touch membrane defective To determine which component is at fault, disconnect ribbon strip. If NO fault code, replace membrane, otherwise replace board F2 Oven too hot Check oven temperature sensor F3 F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F7 Function key shorted Replace touch pad F8 Analog/Digital converter Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch Check door lock circuit F10 Function key stuck Replace touch pad

Jan 27, 2009 | Magic Chef 31000 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Kenmore drop in range code F7


Oven control beeps and Electronic control as detected fault condition.
Press CLEAR to clear the display and stop displaysF1,F3, F7 ,or F9 beeping.
Program oven again.If fault recurs,record fault number.
Press CLEAR and contact your Sears authorized qualified service agency.

Oct 17, 2008 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Kenmore electric range F5 and F3 warnings


All F3-E Codes - Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).


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May 13, 2008 | Kenmore 30169 Electric Single Oven

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