Question about Hoover AL130 Front Load Washer

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TROUBLE CHANGING BEARINGS, DUE TO BEARING SHaft pushing through the bearing as we try to draw the drive end bearing off with bearing pulleys

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  • Hoover Master
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You will have to remove the complete drum and shaft assy from the washer to change the bearing/s, there is no other way of doing it unfortunately.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hello,

It is most definitely a transmission code.

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

If there is a whine/whirring sound, it may be due to drive sprocket support bearing fluting and/or bearing failure.

Replace the drive sprocket support bearing. Inspect the channel plate and drive sprocket for any abnormal wear, Turbine shaft for cut seals and/or nicks, and chain for excessive play due to failed bearings.

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Please mention if the bearings are in the drum, If so the assembly must be mechanically removed with the pulley out of the shaft and the fittings removed with the mount of the bearings.
Once the agitator is removed fromt he top and the pulley from the bottom, the shaft will come off and the bearings can be pushed out with the same size fitting to the bearing outer..might need pressure or a slight tap to move it out.
All of this only if you have a confirmed bearing which is faulty with a good indication.

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bearing removal is not difficult
once you have the wheel off remove the seals on both sides.
remove any internal snap rings or retaining rings.
now the correct way to remove the bearings is with a bearing remover its a shaft with an expandable tip and a weighted slide. when the end is inserted into the center race of the wheel bearing then the shaft is turned to expand the expandable end locking it in place then you use the weighted slide on the shaft to drive it out.
replacing the bearings easiest way is ti use a press not everyone has one of those a bearing driver or and old socket can be used to drive in the new bearings just make sure it is smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing hole and just enough to make contact with the outer bearing race do not force or make contact with the center race.
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I have taken my Maytag Neptune-TL washer apart(model FAV6800AWW). The machine did not spin dry anymore do to the roll clutch bearings being frozen. When I knocked out the roll clutch bearings, I did not...


Hello datil7772 ,

Did you see this post? My series 16 machine did not use the upper bearing ring. What is 1st two digits of your serial number.

I believe that bearing ring is a plain bearing ring not a One-Way Roller clutch bearing as is in the Clutch Pulley. I refer to it as One-Way roller clutch but I believe I’m wrong can you confirm?

Any way the ears on that upper ring should go up into the tub slots in the bottom of the wash tub. I would be concerned about the reliability of you Clutch you may want to replace it. The post above has the clutch I recommend and the supplier with the best price. I also describe reassembly of the clutch in the machine. Good luck back and post back if
you have questions…… Rich

Info from the above post;
6.
Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).


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Asko 620 moter failure?bearing replacement?


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I'm afraid it means a new motor.
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How to change a bearing on front loader washing machine?


To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
----------------------------
1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.

Jul 15, 2008 | Washing Machines

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