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I am contractor and one of my workers dropped a window and chipped a customer's slate patio. The chips are like a stratified layer so i want to glue them back together since they are set in morter and would be difficult to replace. any idea on the proper adhesive?

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  • ronsimm1 Oct 12, 2010

    I thank you for your help. We are a respected contractor and it was the homeowners suggestion that they would be happy just to have it patched. I was also thinking about masonry caulk. What do you think about that?



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I would suggest silicone sealer. That would be your best bet as it allows for some movement.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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Use contractor grade subfloor glue if this gets wet use 30 year clear window and door silicone around the edges so water cant get in then use the subfloor glue in the middle inside this should glue it down well and keep the water out, A good contractor would not scab this problem like this. I am a contractor as well. If this is what it takes and looks good when you are done, hope the homeowner is happy, Good luck.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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What kind of putty do you use to fill in the holes in pool table slate

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sorry but know of no food safe glue .

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Cartridge is missing

There is a chip on each cartridge that the printer reads when it is inserted. Sometimes the glue that holds the chip in place comes loose and the chip falls off. Seen this happen, especially with refurbished cartridges. Or maybe the chip is bad itself. Try to use your old cartridge and if you don't get this error, then you know it is the chip and or the cartridge.

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My Swanstone sink is sixteen years old and still in very good condition except for a small chip. The sink is a cream color with black and white specks. Is there any way to repair the sink?

You should be able to have a competent repair or restoration specialist from a reputable granite or marble fabrication shop come to your home and fix the problem. If it is a very small chip (less than an eighth of an inch around, my first try would be super glue. Keep in mind the fill will be fairly clear in color, which may match the dark specks, if not use an indelible marker after you smooth the glue to color it black. Use the gel type super glue if it is on a vertical portion of the sink, otherwise use a thinner variety. Clean the chip with sop and water, let it dry then use rubbing alcohol to remove any grease or oil residue. Use a masking type tape to isolate the chip so you have less work once the glue dries. Fill the chip and once the glue is dry, use a single edge razor (Use extreme caution, razors are by nature sharp) to gently scrape, not cut the glue flush to the sink surface. The manufacturers of these sinks claims they are difficult to scratch, but pay attention to your pressure or you might create scratches on the sink itself. Hold the blade perpendicular to the surface of the sink and take your time scraping the dried glue down changing to a fresh blade often. If the chip is in a radius area of the sink, you will have to be a bit more creative and probably use steel wool to remove the excess dried glue. I would start with #000 and see how that works, maybe using #00 to start the process and finish with #000 or #0000 steel wool to match the finish of your sink. If your chip is larger than an eighth of an inch around, I would recommend hiring a repair and restoration specialist from a competent granite fabrication shop to make a color matched epoxy to fill the blemish.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, Brandon Wiese - -

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A very small chip on our new porsaline hand basin glued the chip in again but needs i think painting the chip is about the size of a small pea but can still see where it is chipped

1) I was a painting contractor for many years.
Over the years, we tried touching up curtains and wallpaper and carpet etc.

2) You will have a very difficult time matching gloss and color of porcelain

Maybe semi-clear fingernail polish. Use clear polish and add a dab of white into the bottle ... see if it will shake up and make translucent polish >>
3) Personally I think 'paint' increases chance of making the repair much worse.

4) Whatever paint or fingernail polish you put on the spot will probably peel off easily if you decide it looks worse. But 'paint' can get into repair crack and be more noticeable.

5) Get a magnifying glass and look closely at why the piece doesn't fit.
Did the piece fit as well as it should?
Or is the glue holding it out?
If the glue sticks up a bit, then take exacto knife and surgically cut away glue.
Or use lacquer thinner or acetone and try to remove glue line.

I think acetone would be my first choice before trying anything else.

6) If repair is on side of basin, then live with it for a year and see if still bothersome. Eyesight and memory get worse over time.

The only thing we successfully touched up was outdoor brick and fiberglass roofing materials, mostly because they were outdoors and couldn't be inspected closely, and the surfaces were flat without any shine whatsoever.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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IF you're speaking of the hard black plastic floors that come with thes, I'd put it directly on the patio stones. No wood to rot.

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Underneath my freezer was a layer of ice which, when chipped at nade a hissing sound. Was it gas leaking or trapped air coming out?

Based on what you described and my past experience, I think (unfortunately) you might have a gas leak. Not sure how bad the sound or leak is, but you'll definitely know it's a leak if or when you 1) Smell some kind of oil. This is the oil that lubricates the cooling system or 2) You see an oily liquid around the chipped area or just below it. Again, this would be an obvious sign of leakage.

If determined that you do have a leak, I would say you could try to fix it yourself by using some special applications glue (e.g., Plumber's Goop, Epoxy (water proof type). These kinds of glues can handle the moisture and pressure most of the time. However, some good preparation will be required. You will have to empty all the food out of the freezer and refrigerator and then power down and completely dry the cracked area. Once dry, you may want to take a piece of fine grit (150-200 grade) sand paper and do a light scuff/sand on the cracked area to ensure that the glue will have a good surface to bond to. Finally, make sure the glue is cured and completely dried before turning the refrigerator back on. Dry time can vary depending on the type of glue and air environment, but I would just wait a whole day or more before testing just to be safe.

Good luck!

I Can Fix It

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The mirror base that normally gluged to the window is spring loaded locked. if the wirror was wher it belonged the (chip) slips out the bottom of the mirror. older ones had a set screw. holding the wirror stem firmly in one hand I smack the chip with a hammer at a 45 degree angle towards the open end of the slot that its in. The mirror kit the you get at the parts store sometimes has a new chip the activetor and the small amount of glue. Mark with a majic marker on the outside of the windsheild where the mirror was tape works good too if you get the window clean enought for the mirror to stay on them you wont be able to see where it used to be. It's anoying to have the wirror in the wrong place. Clean the chip with the narrow end to the top and the thicker side away from the glass the activvater wipe both the glass and the chip soon later not touching either places a little glug on the chip anpust hard against the glass for at least 30 seconds. wait 15 minutes or so and slided the mirror over the chip from the top slide down till it clicks on and your done remove the tape or rub out the marker mark

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There are a number of possible causes of this.

1. Faulty chip on the cartridge, or badly fitted chip.
It will look obviously 'odd' if the chip is incorrectly fitted to such an extent that contact cannot be made between the cartridge chip and the printer. If it looks OK, and you still have the old cartridge, try swapping the chip (complete in its 'carrier') from the new one onto it. If the stays, it's the chip. Confirm this by putting the OLD chip back on the OLD cartridge, and you should get a different message telling you the catridge is empty.

2 Broken cartridge (I've seen quite a few like this - see pictures - the broken one had probably been dropped).

First picture - undamaged cartridge, note 'lug'.

Second picture - missing 'lug' (cartridge has probably ben dropped)

There is an opto sensor that checks the presence of the cartridge by 'looking for' this lug. The matching one at the other end of the cartridge has no effect.
It is possible to glue a broken lug back onto the cartridge, if the lug is missing, make something that matches the overall size and profile and glue that on - make sure the glue has set/hardened fully before putting the cartridge into the printer.

3 Faulty circuit board, or sensor in printer.

If you've tried the instructions under 1, and the error message stays the same through all the combinations of OLD chip, OLD cartridge, NEW chip, NEW cartridge, AND 2 is not applicable, this is where you are. It could be the opto sensor that 'looks' for the cartridge - you could 'short' this out (be careful to do this on the correct side of the device). Otherwise its a circuit board problem.

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