Question about Kenmore Dryers

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The heating element in my Kenmore dryer, model number 110.63032101, does not fully heat up sometimes. With the setting on cotton/high the element will sometimes be fully illuminated and sometimes only partially illuminated. The element seems to turn off and on properly during the cycle. Could this be the heating element, thermostat or the thermal cutoff?

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No,that's how they run,if your clothes are drying and the dryer is cycling on and off,leave it alone,if the clothes are taking a long time to dry clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into and blow out the vent line with a leaf blower if it's a long run

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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Dryers with lint filter on the front.

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Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


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1 Answer

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The heat cycle must be working for the timer to advance in the Auto Dry setting.
Your heating element and or high limit thermostat is bad.
We need a complete model number to be more specific.

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1 Answer

Heating element or coils not glowing and getting no heat model is a kenmore 70 series and is electric


Bad Thermal High limt,
Bad Thermistor,
Bad heat element.

Need model number, located on inside of door, usually.

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Hi, You need to change the coils on the top of the gas valve. This is a very common problem with the newer gas dryers. We have them for $29.95 on out web site www.whilpoolpartssurplus.com
If I can assist you further, please let me know.

Thanks
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you need a dryer conversion, it sounds like it is set up for lp gas

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check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.

Apr 06, 2009 | Kenmore 64742 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element and/or replacement bulb


no light bulbs on its own line and routs through the door switch as for the heat check your temp select button or your thermostst in the control panel should be a tech sheet with specs but be sure to put it back when your done

Feb 11, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer


If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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check the vent outside it seems to be getting too hot and cycling the element off and on your safety therm.

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