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The pilot lights but the main burners never come on. The high limit and pressre switch are both closed. I have power to the gas valve.

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Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. If there is power to the gas valve then the gas valve is bad. Once the 24 volts is supplied to the gas valve the valve should open if it doesn't then the selonoid is bad.

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

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When I light my Pilot on my Fryer it will not stay lit long enough to light the fryer. What can i do?


There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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The burner will not be lit and the ignition goes out


There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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1 Answer

Hayward spa pool heater pilot on, heat does not ignite burners


Don't really think the gas company would be checking your pool heater, they most likely just checked their gas connections. I would suspect a few things; control module, thermostat, gas valve, pressure switch. You say you get pilot light, and as long as it doesn't turn off and on, as if it is not being sensed, then I would suggest the control module is fine. If the pilot and main burner is controlled by the same valve, and your pilot light stays lit, then I would suggest the thermostat is fine. I take back the pressure switch since the pilot will ignite. I would check power to the gas valve solenoid and see if the control module is trying to open the gas valve. I would suspect low voltage, probably around 24v. If voltage is present and no gas, I would say you found the problem.

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1 Answer

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if burner lights after jumping valve you have something wrong in thermostat loop. disconnect the 2 thermostat wires on gas valve and use multimeter on continuity setting. if all wires ,connectors and components are good,you will get a tone.since you have jumped out each component in thermostat loop with no success ,i would suspect a bad wire or oxidation on a terminal .

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2 Answers

Pilot on main burner won't light.


30 ohms is too high. You generally need it close to or below 1. You need to read the ohms across each switch to find the connection or switch that is holding up your control voltage from opening the valve. If that still doesn't work, jump the th terminals on the valve and see if the valve even opens. You may need a new valve.

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1 Answer

Imperial deep fryer IFS40 pilot lights, turn on gas valve main burners come on run for awhile then everything shuts down main and pilot. You can disconnect the thermostat and the same thing happens, main...


Hi there, it sounds like your thermopile, for the pilot, is failing during use, when this happens, the small DC voltage it generates is less than the gas valve requires to stay open, and shuts off the pilot, which shuts off the main burners. Another thing that could be happening, is the hi limit is opening prematurely, instead of shutting of the pilot at 450 deg. it now is opening at 325, or 225 or 250. Sometimes the sensing bulb gets broken where it pass's through the oil tank causing this symptom. If you temporarily bypassed the hi limit to test this also, and it still goes off, you need a thermopile. If it stays on, check your temp with a reliable thermometer, and see if it reads fairly close to your setting, if so, then you need a hi limit.
Hope that helps, and thank you.

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Pilot light


Assuming that your make up air and exhaust hood are properly balanced, no negetive pressure conditions exist, your gas manifold pressure is at 4" wc, your air/gas mix on the burner set correctly, the your problem would be the pilot adjustment. If the flame is not intense enough flame to survive the sudden air shock, it will go out.

The pilot height should be about 1 1/2". Your Pilot orfice could also need cleaning. Eliminate excessive draft in your kitchen.

Here is the manual for your unit, it covers these topics.

http://www.frymaster.com/docs/uploaded/fry/products/OperationalManuals/819-5355.pdf

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