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THERE IS NO LIGHT ON REFRIGERATOR SIDE, BUT ON THE FREEZER SIDE, THERE IS LIGHT AND ICE DISPENSER WORKS., BUT NO COOLING

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  • abeboy Oct 12, 2010

    THERE IS NO COOLING, THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT RUN, NO BUTTONS LIGHTED ON REFRIGERATOR SIDE, NO POWER WHATSOEVER, ONLY THE FREEZER SIDE HAS LIGHTS, ICE DISPENSER WORKS, BUT NO ICE SINCE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT RUN.

  • abeboy Oct 12, 2010

    there is no light on the on and off button, temperature indicators are not lighted on the refrigerator side . no cooling, no compressor sound, but the freezer side has lights, ice dispenser and water working, but no since there is no power going to the compressor

  • abeboy Oct 12, 2010

    THERE IS NO POWER GOING TO THE REFRIGERATOR SIDE, NO LIGHTS, NO COMPRESSOR RUNNING,NO COOLING,BUT THERE IS LIGHT ON THE FREEZER SIDE ICE DISPENSER MOTOR IS WORKING, NO COOLING AND HENCE NO ICE.

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5 Answers

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Hi,
Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .


Hope this helps in solving the problem....

Posted on Oct 13, 2010

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Hi!! The first thing that comes up with the symptoms you describe is the PCB. If you can access it and check for burnt spots or smell, something that you can find odd.
There could be a few things wrong with the unit. But to start troubleshooting, I will need the Refrigerator's Make and Model.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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Hi,


The light switches are located on the ceiling inside the freezer compartment or on the outer wall inside the refrigerator compartment. If these are not the locations of your refrigerator's light switches, the light switch is likely not the reason for the lights being off.

If the light switch appears to be stuck in the closed position (flush with the compartment wall or ceiling), use the small lip on the end of the switch to gently pull and release the switch.

http://whirlpool.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2801



Do get back to us for any further query and do not forget to accept it.


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Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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Abe,
Try changing the bulbs on both sides to make sure 1, The bulbs are alright and 2. the current is reaching the fridge side. if the bulb on the fridge side does not light up on the freezer side then the bulb needs replacement. If it lights up then you have to concentrate on the wiring/loose connection somewhere.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

  • Rinoo Kumari Oct 12, 2010

    If the compressor is non functional then you must first inspect the wiring. If there is current reaching the compressor then the compressor needs rewinding or replacement. But I feel it is the wiring fault as there is light somewhere in the unit. That means that the fault lies in the wiring ahead of that place. Check it or have it checked by a professional.

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Follow these steps :

Analyzing the likely source
Step 1
Move the refrigerator out from the wall and look for the location of the leak.
Step 2
Check the side panels and the seals around the door for beads of "sweat." This could indicate a condensation problem.
Step 3
Check the floor. A puddle there could indicate a missing or cracked drip pan, or a leak in the water line that feeds your ice maker.
Step 4
Check for water seeping from the front of the freezer or the refrigerator. This could indicate your defrost drain is plugged or your ice maker is leaking.
Fixing a condensation problem
Step 1
Check that the doors shut correctly. Hold each door about halfway open, then let go. If the doors don't shut completely, adjust the screw legs on the front of the refrigerator so the unit tilts back a bit. With adjustable pliers, turn each leg one revolution clockwise. Recheck the doors and, if necessary, repeat the process until they shut securely.
Step 2
Inspect the door gaskets. Look for debris that may keep the doors from shutting. Also check for cracks or gaps in the gaskets that could allow the cold air to seep out. If you find debris, clean the gaskets with warm, soapy water. If you find cracks or gaps, you'll need to replace the gaskets (see How to Fix a Refrigerator That Cools Poorly).
Step 3
If your refrigerator is equipped with a door-frame heater that evaporates condensation, make sure the heater is turned on. The switch should be located with your other refrigerator controls.
Fixing a drip-pan problem
Step 1
Pull off the grill that runs along the bottom of your refrigerator.
Step 2
Locate the drip pan, using a flashlight if necessary. The pan should be sitting on top of a set of black condenser coils and directly below a drain tube that carries water from your freezer when it is in defrost mode.
Step 3
Place the drip pan in your sink and fill it with water to test for leaks. If it leaks, order a replacement from your appliance dealer.
Step 4
If the drip pan doesn't leak, clean it with warm, soapy water, then reinstall the pan and the refrigerator grill.
Fixing a clogged defrost drain
Step 1
Locate the defrost drain. It should be a round hole or a channel running under the vegetable and fruit bins in the refrigerator or along the floor of the freezer compartment.
Step 2
Inspect the drain for clogs and remove any debris. If necessary, use a small screwdriver to break up debris that's trapped in the drain hole.
Step 3
Fill a meat baster with hot water and force it through the drain to make sure the clog is gone. If the drain is operating properly, the hot water will fill the drip pan.
Fixing a leaky ice maker
Step 1
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and locate the copper water-supply line. It runs from the house water line to the refrigerator water-supply valve. (To get to the supply valve, you may have to use a screwdriver or a nut driver and socket to remove your refrigerator's back access panel.)
Step 2
Inspect the copper supply line, the supply valve, and the plastic supply tube that runs from the other side of the supply valve to the back of the ice maker.
Step 3
If a connection is leaking, tighten it with an adjustable wrench. If either the copper supply line or the plastic supply tube is leaking, you need to replace it.
Step 4
Turn off the water supply. The valve may be under the kitchen sink or connected to a cold-water pipe in your basement.
Step 5
Remove the faulty line and take it to a hardware store to get an exact replacement.
Step 6
Install the new line, tighten the connections with the adjustable wrench and turn the water back on.

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

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Before going to buy any parts directly.
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You can go through the details, by clicking the link below:---

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html
-----------
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