Question about GE Dryers

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I have no heat to my electric GE dryer,everything else seems to work properly.

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  • tweets12 Oct 11, 2010

    I thought it was the heating element,My question is can it be replaced and how difficult is the replacement .

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  • Master
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If everything works great except for the heat, then the most common problem is the heating element. In some rare cases the venting could be plugged up or the flap in the main venting that is supposed to close when dryer heats up may not be closing.

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Oct 12, 2010

    Replacing the Heater Coils
    The heater section is located behind the drum and consists of resistance wire coils suspended in ceramic insulators. The heater section provides the heat to dry your clothes. The GE/Hotpoint dryer has two coils; one for low heat and both for high heat. If your dryer's performance is unimpressive in the high heat settings it may have lost one set of coils and if you get no heat, you may have lost them both!





    Tools Required:

    5/16 inch nut driver
    No. 15 Torx screw driver
    Wire cutters are handy for getting the old coils off and needle nosed pliers are handy for getting the new coil wires on the terminals .

    Parts Required: GE WE11X260 or a WE11X203 coil kit. (These have 2 elements in them)

    Procedures for Replacing the Heater Coils

    1.Unplug the dryer, disconnect the dryer vent and pull the dryer far enough away from the wall to get behind it.
    2.Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove about 10 sheet metal screws from the rear access panel. Remove the panel and slide it down the power cord to get it out of the way.
    3.Make a little drawing of how the belt is routed around the idler pulley and the motor pulley. Reach in and relieve the tension on the belt by moving the idler pulley away from the belt. Slip the belt off the motor pulley and idler pulley.
    4.Locate the metal plate on the back of the dryer behind the drum. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the screws and then the panel.
    5.Use a small screw driver to pry the e-clip off the end of the drum shaft. Keep a finger on this e-clip as you ease it out or it will fly away and you will have to hunt for it. Carefully remove the three washers on the end of the shaft. The drum is now free to slide out of the rear bearing.
    6.Open the door and remove the four Torx screws holding down the underside of the top panel. The panel will then lift up. Use a 5/16 inch nutdriver to remove the two screws inside the cabinet, near the top on either side that hold the front of the cabinet on.
    7.Lift the front off the two screws down at the bottom and swing the front around to the right without disconnecting any wires and lean it up against the side of the cabinet.
    8.Grip the drum with one hand at the rear and the other hand at the front. Be careful not to cut yourself on the razor sharp edges on the porcelain coated drum. Pull the drum forward to clear the rear bearings and then lift it up and out. Leave the belt on it and set it aside.
    9.Now you have a good view of the heater shroud and coils. It will be easy to locate the breaks in the coils.
    10.Remove the broken coils. This task is made easier by cutting up the old coils into several pieces and carefully pulling them through the standoff insulators. Be gentle with the insulators as they are fragile.
    11.If these were original coils, the ends of the coils will be welded to the terminal bolts. Cut the wires off and remove the old terminal bolts by loosening the outer nut and disassembling the insulators. If the old terminals have the wires sandwitched between two nuts, loosen the nut on the end of the terminal. Again, be careful not to put too much torque on the nuts or you will break the insulators. Remove the remaining old wires.
    12.Prepare the coils for restringing by stretching them to specific lengths. Stretch the inside coil to 42 1/2 inches and the outer coil to 49 1/2 inches. These lengths are for a relaxed coil. It is better to have the coils too short than too long. If you stretch them too far, the coils will sag down and touch the metal heater shroud and burn up.
    13.Install the new terminal bolts through the insulators. Be carefull not to break an insulator. You can't safely install the terminals with broken insulators and another trip down to the parts store to get new ones will slow down your repair a bunch.
    14.Start threading the new coils through the insulators on the side opposite the therminals and work in both directions toward the terminals.
    15.Note that both coils are connected to the top terminal and the other two ends are connected to the remaining two terminals.
    16.Use a needle nose pliers to wind the wires around the terminals between two washers and nuts.
    17.Slide the drum into its rear bearing
    18.Replace the three washers and the e-clip on the drum shaft in back of the dryer. Replace the bearing cover plate.
    19.Loop the belt behind the idler pulley, pull it back and then loop the belt around the motor pulley.
    20.Replace the rear panel and the dryer vent.
    21.Swing the front panel around and position it on the two lower screws. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to replace the two sheet metal screws at the top.
    22.Lower the top and secure it with the 4 Torx screws
    23.Plug in the power cord and check for proper operation.

    Remember!: If the elements went out, it is likely you also have venting restrictions.

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