Question about Viking VGIC485-6G Gas Kitchen Range
The oven doesn't always light. Sometimes the ignitor sparks 2 or three times and it will light, sometimes it starts with a small BOOM, sometimes it won't start. This has been going in one form or another since I bought the stove about a year ago. I tryed adjusting the air shutter on the burner tube and the postion of the spark ignitor relative to the burning tube by bending the probe slightly. Any suggestions?
Turning any knob starts the spark via a switch behind each which should disengage when the (any) knob is turn further.
One of your switches is stuck.
I think you should be able to remove the range-top for access and find the offending switch.
It is probably gummy from a spill and is no longer in solid contact with the cam that operates it.
A solvent/lubricant such as WD-40 sprayed on the plunger of the switch once you can see it and operating the knob back and forth should free it up.
It might be wise to turn off the gas supply while tinkering with the range - blow your house away and the range won't matter. :-(
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
SOURCE: Ignitor won't shut off
The Viking manual says that an ignitor that continues to try to light even after the burner has been lit indicates improper grounding, and that an electrician should be consulted.
Perhaps you could try to replace the ignitor, and see if that fixes the problem?
I have a similar age, 6-burner 36" rangetop.
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
replace the electrode that's the wire or pilot tip, it has a sensor built in, when it gets hot it stops automatically. if the electrode is between the front and rear burners, there are small holes on the burners going down on the side of the burner facing the ignition. they need to be clean. try a paper clip and insert the clip in side the holes.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
all ignitors spark at the same time no matter which burner is turned on. If you are having trouble with one burner not lighting try cleaning around the ignitor with a small screw driver so the spark has a good path to ground.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
their is one of two things causing that,
1) the switch that supplies power to the spark module when the burner is turned on is bad...its located on the shaft of the burner valve thier is one switch for each knob so counting the oven and the burners their is 5 (the oven is different from the surface burners) to check those switches what needs to be done is remove the knobs then the face panel so ya can get to the knobs.
No is where is gets a bit complcated if ya dont follow all procedures....the knob must turned on to check so gas will be flowing and ya must light the gas using a match or raw gas will eneter the kitchen...or if possible temporarly turn off gas supply to the unit.also POWER MUST BE DISCONNECTED and then with power off and the burner lit manually once turned on ya would need to check each switch to have continuity,if any of the switches does not have continuity when measured with a ohm meter that switch will be bad
2) the igniter is cracked so power is coming from spark module yet since its cracked power is jumping out before it gets the where it lights the burners.
Posted on Oct 02, 2011
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