PROBLEM, ROOT CAUSE: the METAL FLANGE holding the fixed latch and (3) interlock safety switches is about a thick as the metal in the screw cap on a glass bottle ... say 16 gauge or less.
The METAL FLANGE is thin, wing that has not support to prevent it from swinging like a door hinge. We use (2) of the microwaves everyday. One has never given the "DOOR CLOSE" will not operate problem. The 2nd microwave worked for two or three years. Then it was difficult to close ... and the panel gave the failure message ... "CLOSE THE DOOR."
I was able to use my thumb to press and remove 'dimples' into the metal. It was giving just a little more support than a 'say 10 vertical sheets of wet white copy paper.' We I bent it back to the proper alignment, the door closed and the switches worked. But after just a few cycles of OPEN & CLOSE, the switches would not let the microwave operate ... and the door began harder to close.
SOLUTION: To prevent or limit the movement of the METAL FLANGE, I used (2) connected loops of cable ties like a vertical suspender. The suspender prevents the METAL FLANGE from moving away from the center of the microwave.
1. Un-plug the power cord.
2. There are two methods to remove the case:
(a.) Turn the microwave on one side, the place a ruler beside one of the TORX (with center security pin) screws. Take a digital photo. Go to an auto parts sales office that sells a license plate kit with a kit (a TORX wrench with a drilled HOLE and many of the same TORX (with center security pin) screws.
(b.) Drill out the center security pin at each of the TORX (with center security pin) screws.
3. I used (2) each 12 inch long plastic cable ties. The width was less than 3/16" wide (so it would thread into two [~0.15 inch diameter] existing ventilation holes in the microwave).
4. I threaded one of the plastic cable ties thru a hole at the top, near the front, about one inch toward the center of the microwave.
5. I threaded the 2nd plastic cable tie thru a hole in the bottom, near the front, about 2" towards the center from the latch plate.
6. I formed a large loop with the bottom cable tie, very loose, do not tightened at this stage. I threaded the open end of the top cable tie thru the bottom cable tie loop.
7. THEN I carefully
(a) opened & closed the DOOR, WHILE
(b) watched the position of the METAL FLANGE
(c) AS I slowly tightened each of the large loops of cable ties.
(d) I repeated steps (a) to (c)
(e) I stopped tightening when the CABLE TIES LOOPS provided SOME support, AND the METAL FLANGE still have some hinge movement.
My Panasonic NN-SN797S door would not close. My solution has worked since about March 1st, 2013. Below is a photo from the factory manual.