Question about Refrigerators

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Will not cool or freeze. fan is running but compressor is not. pulled capacitor and looked for burnt terminals every thing looked OK.

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  • jimpoteat Oct 12, 2010

    the bottom section of the fridge is cooling and the bottom section of the freezer is freezing but nothing at the top

  • jimpoteat Oct 12, 2010

    the bottom portion of fridge and freezer is working but top is not cooling or freezing

  • jimpoteat Oct 12, 2010

    allready done that bottom portion is cooling and freezing top is not this is a side by side.

  • jimpoteat Oct 12, 2010

    the bottom is still cooling and freezing the top is not this is a side by side.

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5 Answers

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  • Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

There was not a model number included with your post so this is generic. To check your compressor to see if there is an electrical problem remove the plastic cover from the side of the compressor with POWER REMOVED and then pull both the PTC relay / KliXon thermoal overload off in one piece. Read each of the three terminals to the case of the compressor. 2 of the 3 should read open. Depending on the compressor installed on lead can read to ground. Then read the 2 top terminals to each other and then to the bottom terminal. Think of the, as terminals 1, 2 and 3 in a clockwise direction. Continuity 1 to 3 and 2 - 3. No continuity = open winding.
Will post more after lunch..... sorry to keep you hanging.

Kelly

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

  • Kelly
    Kelly Oct 12, 2010

    Glad I took a lunch break as I can now see tht the freezer is working but the fresh food section is warming up. Now it seems that you may have an automatic defrost problem or an air damper problem.

    The air damper regulates the airflow between the freezer and the fresh food section. Some are manually controlled others have an air damper motor automatically controlled by either a thermostat or a thermistor. It should open and close the air gap between the freezer and the fresh food section. On manually controlled units this is done via a mechanical linkage and the air damper is fixed.

    Other units have 2 evaporators there is an evaportator fan in BOTH the fresh food section and the freezer. The fan in these type units will shut off when the door is opened. Check the door switch plunger to see that the internal light goes off and that the evaporator fan starts. On manually controlled units the evaporator will run any time the comprsor is running.

    Now for a simple: "Do I have an automatic defrost probelm or not test?

    1. Unplug the unit
    2. Empty the freezer section contents
    3. Place a fan blowing air into the freezer section for at least 2 hours (water mess be prepaired)
    4. Wipe up all of the water mess and plug in the refrigerator.
    5. Reload the freezer section.
    6. After 3 hours check your freezer and fresh food section temps. If the temps are at or near normal.

    If everything appears normal after doing this the automatic defrosting circuit is not working correctly and will have to be troubleshot. Typical defrost failures are:
    1. defrost control
    2. defrost heating element
    3. wiring
    4. clogged freezer drain.
    5. Defrost thermostat (however if this is bad the compressor will not start post defrost.)

    That is pretty much it in a nutshell. With a make and model number I could be a bit more specific with information applicable to YOUR unit. As it is everything above is generic. My first post in no longer applicable based on the information you provided after your initial post.

    Thanks for choosing FixYa.

    Kelly

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  • Master
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Did u check the coil in the compressor,, could be burnt out ???? or did u check the freon pressure ??

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Oct 13, 2010

    check the lines chances are one is clogged up.. hmm actually just turn it off overnight if one of the lines is clogged by ice or other,, turning it off for a while will lover the pressure a bit and it could just loosen it up.. try it first..

    also check the top metal part to see if its punctured..

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  • Master
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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Oct 12, 2010

    DEFROST PROBLEM
    The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

    If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

    If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
    With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
    You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

    The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

    If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

    If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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  • Master
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Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. What you will need to do is use an electric meter and verify with the meter that there is power going to the compressor if the compressor is getting power and the compressor isn't running then you will have to check the compressor for open windings by setting the meter to ohms and check each terminal of the compressor to each other if ther is no resistance through any of the windings to one another then the compressor has an open winding and will need to be replaced.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

Look for a bad start relay and overload for the compressor and then clean the dirty condenser coils. Test the windings of your compressor with an OMH meter. If the reading comes out ok with your compressor then you will need to replace the start relay

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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