Question about Lakewood 792/JR Utility Heater
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We have these heaters and haven't had a fuse fail yet. I think it's because after the first time I got that crackling sound after moving it while it was on, I stopped doing that, and only move it with the power off, and wait two minutes before restarting it, so the oil can resettle.
However, the thermostats are now failing. Anyone know if this part is available?
Posted on May 14, 2010
Hi Spybotics. I have the same problem and I traced mine down to a burned out over-heat fuse link. Check out my recent post. My guess is that you are having the same problem as me. It's not hard to tell - just take off the rear panel and test the link (looks like a small resistor in line with the element) with an ohm meter. Open circuit means burned out fuse link. DO NOT bypass the link, as an extreme fire hazard will exist without it.
Posted on Apr 22, 2007
SOURCE: open circuit on electric heater
Well, it's a little late but since this is still up and people still read it apparently, here's a few more pointers on problems like this.
The part that blew is usually called a thermal fuse, and appliance parts stores usually insist on knowing the temperature that is printed on the side in order to get you a replacement.
They should also be able to sell you heat-resistant crimp-on connectors with which to install it.
Small motors usually slow down and stop because the bearings are plugged up with dust and crud. A drop or two of light oil might work but more likely you'll have to disassemble the motor. Don't use WD-40 unless you like your house full of that smell, and if you do chase it with some real oil because it evaporates out of the bearings and leaves them dry eventually. Be careful not to bend the fan blades. Clean the bearings and the shaft until a white piece of cloth doesn't show any dirt.
For those of you with heaters still running, an ounce of prevention: Take care of the motor as soon as you notice it running slow. The slower it runs the hotter the coils get and if they get hot enough the thermal fuse blows and you have to hassle with replacing it. Also, nichrome wire eventually fails by breaking, stretching, and/or sagging; and the hotter it gets the sooner it fails.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
SOURCE: ROCKER SWITCH DIAGRAM
On the top of the switch (inside the heater) there is a common connection.....even though it looks as if it is connected (electrically), it isn't electrically affected by the switch; it's just used as a post. It's just the place where the striped wire connects to the "common" point for the heater coils (they are in a parallel). Also, while you're in there you might want to put some electrical grease on the exposed conductors.....mine had quite a bit of corrosion (which was the reason for the failure). I had to replace 3 of the female connectors.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
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