Need to know if i can find a replacement for the overflow stopper gadget. Ours broke and we use this almost year round. It's still working fine and really don't need to purchase a new one if possible. can you tell me if i could find one? and where?
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Nine times out of ten, a problem with a dehumidifier can be traced to electrical parts-not to the compressor. If the problem is being caused by the compressor and the unit is out of warranty (most have a 1-year limited warranty), strongly consider replacing the unit rather than trying to have the compressor repaired. If you're thinking about having the unit repaired, be sure to ask for an estimate.
Unless it is designed to drain automatically, a dehumidifier should be emptied fairly often during hot and muggy or damp weather- sometimes as often as once a day. In humid, damp climates, a dehumidifier's reservoir can pull as much as 50 pints of water from the air a day. Failure to keep the reservoir clean and dry will just contribute to the problems you're trying to solve. If you're in the market for a new dehumidifier, consider its reservoir capacity: Larger capacity reservoirs work more efficiently and have to be emptied less often. Many dehumidifiers have a float switch that prevents the unit from spilling over with the water that has been drawn out of the air. Sometimes this switch goes bad and must be replaced. If your dehumidifier is overflowing, you can test the overflow prevention switch with a volt-ohm meter. 1) Unplug the dehumidifier and remove the switch. 2) Disconnect the leads and clip the leads to the terminals on the switch. 3) Check the pan or reservoir and empty it if necessary, or make sure the drain isn't clogged. 4) Straighten any kinks or bends in the unit's hose. 5) Set a volt-ohm meter to the RX1 scale (or to K-ω or ω resistance on a digital meter) and depress the bar or trip lever on the switch. If the meter's needle shows no continuity as the switch is clicked back and forth, the switch is probably faulty and will need replacement.
Adding support to larryr425's description: after our Zenith model died and reading a lot of similar complaints all over the web about this model and similar Goldstar/LG/Kenmore models, I took ours apart and measured everything I could make sense of. In the end, replacing the sensor assembly fixed the problem and it has been running again for a couple of weeks. The current Sears part number is 6877A30013V. Much cheaper than buying a new one or sending it somewhere. If you're smart enough to get into the dehumidifier to replace the part, you can do so easily enough. The only problem I had was that the metal clip that holds the thermistor on the cooling line was corroded and brittle. It broke while trying to pull the thermistor itself out of the clip. A zip tie will do the job instead.
its the bucket switch on the unit thats bad,it controls the water level overflow so unit shuts off when bucket is full,its at the top rigt side of the bucket mounted to the float in the bucket and there is a replacement available part # AP3136674,on some units depending on the mounting hole size,you may need to use some old switch mounting parts on the new switch so it fits
I am Roger Duncan.
I have the same error on my Senville unit. What board did you replace, the inside board or one of the outside boards?
I really would appreciate an answer. I have been working with Gt World since July and I still have no a/c or heat.
Check the float first - be sure the styrofoam on the bottom is still intact. Be sure that you can move it up and down freely (and easily) with the bucket out of the machine. If that is not bound up, and the foam is in place, next check the switch in the dehumidifier itself. It's directly behind where the float goes - the way to test it is to turn the dehumidifier on and push the metal tab in with your finger. The machine should cut out immediately - if it does not - the microswitch needs to be replaced. (they're very cheap, and simple to replace)
You can test the humidistat fairly easily, using a volt-ohm meter. Just set the meter to RX1 scale and attach its leads to the humidistat's terminals. Rotate the humidistat's knob as far as it will turn in both directions. If the volt-ohm meter registers zero ohms through only part of the humidistat dial's range, the humidistat is working. If it registers zero through the entire range, it's broken and must be replaced.
Dehumidifier Overflow Cutoff Switch Test-
Using a volt-ohm meter, you can tell if the overflow switch works or not. Clip the leads to the terminals on the switch. Depress the bar or trip lever on the switch. If the meter's needle doesn't show continuity and no continuity as the switch is clicked back and forth, the switch is probably faulty and will need replacement.