Question about Sears Masonry Tools

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I have a sears 4 1/8" jointer. I used it one day to cut a new face on some nominal 2" stock, approximate 2-3 passes on each board, approximately 20 6 ft long pieces. It worked flawlessly most of the day, but now the rpms are greatly reduced and will even stall if I try to cut any more stock. As the unit is very contained, it is hard to see inside the housing. Is this problem due to clogging? The motor does not appear to be very hot. Is it safe to try and blow out the unit with air? Should I open up the housing to clean it out? Or is this more likely a motor problem? I do not have a duct collector installed.

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Hit every vent hole on the tool with as much directed air as you can, first with the motor off, then with it running to get all the dust and particles out of the motor housing you can. If this doesn't bring it back to life you should check the brushes. I'm not familiar with the Sears jointers but most tools have two caps about the size of a dime or a little smaller on the case you can remove to check the brushes. If there are no caps you will have to go into the case to check them. Depending on the model they should be about 1/2" to 3/4" long, with a spring to push them firmly down on hte armature. The end touching the armature should be square and shiny. If they are less than 1/4" long or burnt or broken replace them.

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

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ECHO PB-500T - Stopped running and added gas fuel mix. Quit running again with full tank and now flywheel is stuck and I can't pull to start it. What is the problem?


My $350 Echo PB-500T seized up. I almost cried.

The solution was to drain the fuel tank.

  • Refill fuel tank with an 2-cycle Oli/gas mixture.

  • 40:1 =3.2 oz to one-gallon gas, do not use Alcohol base gas.

  • Remove the spark plug.

  • Pour approximate 1/8 oz 2-cycle Oli into the spark plug hole.

  • Remove the pull cord assembly (4-bolts)

  • This reviled the crank shaft-Pull cord bracket

  • I use a large monkey wrench to turn the shaft (CW) Clock-wise.

  • Complete approximate 20 revolutions.

  • Reassemble, but don't install the spark plug yet.

  • Complete approximate 20 more revolutions

    by pulling the pull cord.

  • Use q-tips to swab the top of the piston, as much as possible.

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Just bought a x reg ford puma but the key fob does not work, bought a new battery and fitted it, needs re-programming but don't know how to do it.


Telephone: Fax: VAT Registration No.:
Infrared remote control
NOTE: Infrared emitter can be seen at front edge of key.
System operation
Switch ignition ON. Ensure clock LED illuminates for 3-5 seconds. Pressing key lock button once activates central locking and alarm. Pressing key lock button twice within 3 seconds activates double locking system.
Programming
When
Key batteries completely discharged. Key batteries not replaced within 15 seconds. Key added or replaced. System malfunction.
How
Obtain all keys fitted with remote control. Turn ignition switch to position I. Wait approximately 10 seconds. Ensure clock LED illuminates.
NOTE: LED illuminates for approximately 5 seconds.
Switch ignition OFF and remove key, while LED illuminated. Programming mode activated for approximately 20 seconds (LED illuminated). Proceed as follows: Point key at receiver (located near interior lamp). Press and hold unlock button Fig. 1 [1]. After approximately 1 second key LED will flash once [3]. Press lock button 3 times Fig. 1 [2]. Release unlock button Fig. 1 [1]. Continue to point key at receiver until LEDs in clock and key have flashed 5 times. Ensure LED remains illuminated. Repeat above procedure within 20 seconds to program remaining keys. To exit programming mode and extinguish clock LED: Switch ignition ON and OFF. Wait approximately 20 seconds.
NOTE: A maximum of 4 keys can be programmed. Fig. 1
Radio frequency remote control
System operation
Switch ignition ON. Ensure clock LED illuminates for 3-5 seconds.


Pressing tailgate release button twice within 3 seconds unlocks the tailgate - if fitted. Pressing key lock button once activates central locking and alarm. Pressing key lock button twice within 3 seconds activates double locking system. Interior lamp illuminates when disarming system.
Programming
When
Key added or replaced. System malfunction.
How
Obtain all keys fitted with remote control. Fasten seat belts and close all doors. From position I, turn ignition switch as follows: To position II. To position I. To position II. To position I. To position II. To position I. Programming mode activated for approximately 20 seconds. LED or fog lamps ON warning lamp illuminates (some models) or the system will emit an acoustic signal to indicate start of programming mode. Proceed as follows: Type 1: Press and hold unlock button Fig. 1 [1]. Type 2: Press unlock button Fig. 2 [2]. Ensure clock LED or fog lamps ON warning lamp flashes (some models) or wait for acoustic signal (indicates correct programming). Wait 2 seconds. Repeat above procedure within 20 seconds to program remaining keys. To exit programming mode: Switch ignition ON. Wait 20 seconds.
NOTE: A maximum of 4 keys can be programmed.

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What size of box in need Pioneer TS-W307D2 12


Length (L) = 31.9 cm = 12.6 inches (approximately 12 1/2 inches)

Width (W) = 51.5 cm = 20.3 inches (approximately 20 1/4 inches)

Depth (D) = 19.7 cm = 7.76 inches (approximately 7 3/4 inches)

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I am looking for a diagram with labeling for a ''under the hood'' fuse box on a 1995 F250 7.3 Diesel . I've a electical leak that I've tracked to this fuse box and two specific fuses, but don't know what...


Two circuits are protected by circuit breakers located in the fuse panel: the power windows (20 amp) or power windows and Shift-On-The-Fly (30 amp) and the power door locks (30 amp). The breakers are self-resetting.
The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.
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    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
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Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice



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1 Answer

Coil on ac is cut by the surrounding wires in 4


If you mean smashed and not popped with freon lost them its likely ok just not pretty

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The sound vanishes periodically on a new panasonic television


Call Panasonic customer relations, most new panasonics need software update for this issue.

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1 Answer

How to make crown molding with a jet 13" planer /molder


You may want to go to the Forum at OWW (Old WoodWorkers.com). What your attempting to do requires several Passes. I usually Rough out BOTH Face & Bevel, then make 2 more cuts each, to get to the Finished dimensions. I usually start with a Face Cut 1st, leaving some Flats for Square then do the Bevel Cuts to Desired dimension, then back to the Face, & take it down to where the Finished product is where I want it.

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2 Answers

Jointer Usage


A jointer has 2 uses. 1. it is used to make the edges of boards straight. If you look down the edge of any board, you will see that they are not straight. This is called a crown. by feeding the board threw the jointer, you will take the high ends down to make the board straight. This is necessary, excuse the spelling, for glue ups. 2. It is also used to flatten out a board. Same as the edge, the face could have a cup. By sending the face through the machine, this will make the board flat. Then you send it through the thickness planer to make the board symetrically even. You can use the jointer to make rabbets also, but there are other machine that will do the job better and faster, such as a router or a table saw, with or with out a dado blade.

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