Question about RTO Bock Water Heaters 32E 32 gal 104,000 3/4" 3/4" 0.75

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Took apart electrode assembly & cleaned--replaced with proper nozzle .75 x 80A- -re-gapped with beckett gauge---was that rite or is there a gauge for the bock water heater or wayne burner? Nees proper gap!!---Also WH & Hot-air--1 -- 3/8th's line--teed off & fighting each other--should I put a check valve in the line & where? Need a quick resonse--my friend's wife wants to kill me (random NO HOT Water) If I do put a check valve in there--can u still bleed the pumps with that in there?

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  • 40 Answers

The nozzle size and gap completely are designed to each burner, if the bock water heater had a becket burner than you would be okay with the gap, if not then what I would do is check the manufactures manual for proper nozzles and gaps of electrode assembly

Posted on May 29, 2017

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robocop
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SOURCE: Brand new Waste King "Quick

I would contact the Anaheim Manufacturing Company, that makes the Waste King Quick water heater. You can also go on-line @ www.wasteking.com and check out their site for a solution.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

jj505
  • 195 Answers

SOURCE: Atwood 6 gallon water heater gets warm not hot. LP

You have a cracked dip tube. Part at hd is under 10 dollars. Remove and replace via cold water inlet side top of water heater. Degree of labor skill 1-10 = 8.

Please Rate.

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 332 Answers

SOURCE: My rv water heater ignites, I have a steady flow

If your lighting and not getting hot water then you have a valve closed or your by pass is in the wrong position, if it is burning on gas it will heat water

Posted on Mar 06, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: burner lights but will not shut off. then pressure

i am having the same problem with mine changed the pressure relief valve and the ECO \ TSTAT but still gets extremely hot can't even touch the water what else could it be

Posted on May 02, 2010

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 2010 view winn- the hot water faucets, when wide

Double check that washers inside fittings attached to back of tank, are not wedged or pinched in there restricting flow. Drain tank, relieve water pressure prior, obviously. The other thing is to check that the by-pass is allowing good flow in to tank when in normal operation mode. Have seen those only go half way inside valve, but lever is at wide open setting. If all that checks out, try removing the check valve on tank, and replace it with a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple, ( or certified plastic/nylon fitting same size) and reconnect water line direct to that, without a check valve. That should do it if nothing else was wrong. Now you have a choice, either change it or leave it out if everything seems ok, but double check that hot water isn't siphoning back to another utility such as toilet if you leave it out and toilet is close. Feeling that cold line (inlet) when water is hot should tell you. I've seen the check valve in both locations, hot (at top of tank) and cold (at bottom of tank -inlet) Not 100% sure why, right from factory that way, but I say, put it on bottom fitting if required at all. Let me know how you make out.

Posted on Oct 21, 2010

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